TREASURED TROUSSEAUS
Image courtesy of Madame Laure de Villoutreys
Guest Edited by Rebecca Devaney
Nothing says La Vie en Rose like a delightful morning in the picturesque surrounds of Marché Vernaison. The winding alleys are strung with trailing ivy, antiques overflow on the narrow passages and the cheerful sounds of jazz manouche fill the air. While it’s a pleasure to lose yourself in the romantic atmosphere of days gone by, it’s a real joy to discover the hidden treasure troves of vintage textiles, especially Linge de Maison.
In the region of Alsace when a girl was born her family bought a field to cultivate flax. Over the years as it was harvested, spun and woven, the linen fabric was used for her trousseau. In French the word trousse means to package and a trousseau was a sort of dowry, a package that contained manner of linens needed for a new home; tablecloths, napkins, tea towels, aprons, bedsheets, pillowcases, towels, facecloths, dressing gowns, underwear and nightwear. As part of their education, young girls learned needlework and the laborious techniques of drawn-thread work decorated endless metres of hems and borders. After an engagement was finalised, delicate white-on-white embroidery embellished the linens with chiffres, intricately monogrammed initials, celebrating the joining of two families. Periodicals such as Ouvrage des Dames published supplements with patterns for monograms and a well prepared woman embroidered her initial in advance, placing it carefully towards the right side. During the engagement she only had to add her fiancés initial, as tradition dictated, to the left of her own. 
Image: Vintage Textile Tours, Madame Jeanine Giovannoni
Of course, not all girls sewed or embroidered their trousseaus, aristocratic families ordered their linens from prestigious companies that specialised in Linge de Maison. Once the linens were purchased, the embroidery was selected, the size and style of lettering, floral, geometric or a combination of both to decorate the linens which were then sent to embroidery ateliers or convents to be embellished before the wedding. Once installed in the grandeur of their new home, the young couple would order an armoire à linge, a purpose built linen cupboard from the local cabinet maker or ébéniste.
Image: Vintage Textile Tours, Madame Jeanine Giovannoni
Madame Jeanine Giovannoni opened her charming boutique 40 years ago and thanks to her exquisite taste and eye for quality, she has an international clientele who return year after year to discover her latest finds. When aristocratic houses are closing and clearing out their attics and linen cupboards, Madame Giovannoni is often the first to be called. She lovingly launders, irons and folds the linens before they are neatly arranged in her linen cupboard or displayed on her long, marble countertop, packaged with a little bow, ready for another trousseau.
Madame Laure de Villoutreys travels the length and breadth of France to find linens and clothing that are destined for the rubbish heap. At home in her studio, she lovingly gives the napkins, tablecloths, smocks and chemises a new lease of life, dyeing them rich indigo blues, sage greens, and vintage rose colours. Delighted clients leave her boutique with bundles of linge de maison, perfect for adding a touch of French Joie de Vivre to their homes.
Rebecca Devaney is running a tour in partnership with Selvedge on 1 - 9 June 2023 (subject to change). You can find more details on our website Selvedge Textile Tour, Paris