{"title":"Bank Holiday Sale","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEnjoy your favourite issues of Selvedge or c\u003cspan\u003e\u003cspan face=\"lato, helvetica neue, helvetica, arial, sans-serif\"\u003ehoose textile related titles from fashion blockbusters to grace your coffee table to rare exhibition catalogues. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cspan face=\"lato, helvetica neue, helvetica, arial, sans-serif\"\u003eDigital issues cost £9.95, print issues start from £6.95 and are priced based on rarity. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003ePlease note the books are a variety of new \u0026amp; second hand. All sales are final. No returns or refunds. \u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe sale code is \u003cstrong\u003eBANKHOLIDAY\u003c\/strong\u003e. You must have a minimum of 3 items in your cart for the offer code to work. \u003cspan\u003eWith any questions please email customerservice@\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"skimlinks-unlinked\"\u003eselvedge.org\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-71-southern","title":"Issue 71 Southern","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eJuly\/August 2016\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-71-sample-article.pdf?16631284152761368560\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_29cdccde-2f9c-4f4e-a1f1-15ddab340c7b_large.png?v=1504180679\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_c3d761a7-7b4e-4409-abc2-5698b71069d9_large.png?v=1504180733\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eCOTTON HAS PLAYED A SIGNIFICANT and controversial role in the history of the British Empire, the United States, and India, and is inextricably linked to the highs and lows of human endeavour. Today cotton is still our firm favourite, accounting for 65% of all fibres used for clothing and home furnishings. What accounts for its preeminence? Cotton is comfortable, absorbs moisture well, is strong and easy to launder; but perhaps it is its ability to retain colour that has accounted more than any other for its success.This issue we appreciate the appeal that pretty printed cotton feedsacks would have had during the great depression: and the appeal also of work clothes re-purposed into attractive, albeit necessary, quilts across the southern United States.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOur love affair with cotton can be seen in the enduring appeal of printed cotton, from artisanal producers to Japanese prints, as well as in the resurgence of interest in selvedge denim jeans.The designer Carin Mansfield uses high quality cotton in the small-scale production of her heirloom quality clothing, available in white, black and indigo. Like cotton, the appeal of indigo crosses continents from Asia through Africa and back to the Americas – and everywhere in between. Rosalie De Ory has been a convert since visiting Central America fifteen years ago, and has pursued her passion with verve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe vibrant colours of traditional Mexican cotton textiles provided inspiration for our cover photographer Anne Menke as well as the contemporary upholstery company A Rum Fellow.We follow the trail to its source in Oaxaca, and on further to the San Blas Islands of the Panamanian archipelago. I hope you find inspiration wherever you follow the sun this summer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":30016917511,"sku":"71","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110550835435,"sku":"71 Southern Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV71-480px.jpg?v=1527265238"},{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-72-green","title":"Issue 72 Green","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eRead a sample article 'The checkered history of checks' by Liese Van Der Watt\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_241a2bb3-e9c3-45c7-ba0b-a9cd89de5240_large.png?v=1505502902\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_682ef379-86ca-4b04-9cdd-4b58a6878f5d_large.png?v=1505502914\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eSeptember\/October 2016\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMAKING ETHICAL CHOICES can be a challenge for even the most informed consumer. We are surrounded by so many brands claiming ethical credentials that it is difficult to cut through the hype and find products with real integrity. This issue Sass Brown guides us through the jungle. My vote, for what it’s worth, is with the buy less buy better lobby, and to repair and repurpose garments to extend their life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne of the side effects of the technology revolution is the renaissance of making. In this issue we see Amy Revier hand weave coats, Abigail Booth hand stich quilts, Huda Baroudi and Maria Hibri reupholster furniture with recycled materials; all of whom make aesthetically beautiful products and almost unconsciously engage with an ethical agenda by managing the integrity of their materials through every stage of production. This movement engenders an optimism for the future as it injects aesthetics, the absence of which has blighted ethical manufacture for decades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTextiles have value because of the time and skill necessary to construct them. If we were able to educate and re-skill our population in garment construction then surely responsible consumption would follow. TV programmes such as the Great British Sewing Bee are helping - I just wish they would use better cloth!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCloth is not a neutral material: it is steeped in cultural connotations, none less so than checks. In this issue we explore the migration of checked pattern around the world and look at how artists have commented on the meaning of the inexpensive nylon checked carryalls we associate with displaced peoples. I urge you to go green when considering your winter wardrobe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"display: none;\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":30218855815,"sku":"72","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110551359723,"sku":"72 Green Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV72-480px2.jpg?v=1527265240"},{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-70-delicate","title":"Issue 70 Delicate","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eMay\/June 2016\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\"SILK IS PRODUCED BY MANY INSECTS, but generally the silk used for textile manufacturing is produced by the Bombyx mori moth whilst a caterpillar. Ironically the silk moth, which is responsible for the production of some of the world’s most precious fabrics, is closely related to Tineola Bisselliella, the clothes moth that can wreak havoc on our most treasured fibres and forms the biggest threat to textile collections worldwide. In this issue Eirlys Penn investigates how museums are protecting their collections. However, even with the best will in the world it is easy to fall victim to the tirade of the clothes moth at home and you may have to resort to repair, which is by no means a disaster. Joan Gormanno creates charming patches to cover moth holes in your favourite cashmere. We also look at the history of darning, from the exquisite samples produced by the student teachers at Whitelands College, to the Japanese art of boro – worn, torn and old patched clothes and textiles which have recently become highly desirable works of art. Kuon is a contemporary fashion brand who translate the boro aesthetic and philosophy into contemporary pieces. Tim Parry-Williams, expert on Japanese textiles and guest editor for this issue, explores what is on offer in the weaving town Fuji-Yoshida.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaring for our valued textiles is not a new phenomenon. In the 17th century the care of linen was a major preoccupation, as we see in the forthcoming Undressed: A brief history of underwear at the V\u0026amp;A. Block soap, similar to that produced today by Marius Fabre, was a domestic essential as the whiteness of one’s linen was a reflection of one’s moral character. We look forward to a linen clad summer with many a new fair and workshop to enjoy.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder \u0026amp; Editor of Selvedge Magazine\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":30219234311,"sku":"70 Delicate Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Print","offer_id":48116467663083,"sku":"70","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV70-480px.jpg?v=1568163855"},{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-69-millinery","title":"Issue 69 Millinery - digital only available","description":"\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is now only available to purchase in digital format.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eMarch\/April 2016\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eIF YOU WANT TO GET AHEAD, GET A HAT: the advertising slogan used by Dunn \u0026amp; Co, hatmakers in the 1940s, is still true today. A hat can get you noticed, add drama to a silhouette and give personality to a character. This is something that Jane Smith, theatrical milliner to the stage, film and television industry for over 40 years, concurs in our feature Scene Stealer. As well as stirring emotions on screen, hats hold a special place in our culture, industry and style. One only has to think of the number of idioms associated with hats; none less memorable than Paddy Ashdown: “I'll eat my hat if polls are right”. Or consider, as Sarah Jane Downing has in this issue, the once booming UK straw hat industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hat is arguably the most potent accessory in one’s arsenal – it can make a compelling or a regrettable impression. So it is important to get it right and to wear your hat with confidence. Wear it reluctantly and there’s the danger that the hat will wear you. The challenge is to make the hat yours. Like a leather bag, a good hat looks better with age. Wear it in, wear it often and wear it until people associate it with you and it becomes your signature. Consider your proportions. and make sure your hat is comfortable. The milliner Jane Taylor recommends: “A bespoke hat is wonderful because it can be made to suit someone’s exact proportions: their height, the size of their face can all be catered for.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDon’t be afraid of idiosyncrasy; a good hat looks personal. My all-time favourite was a beaten-up old suede stetson bought in Yellowstone thirty years ago – I wore it whenever I traveled and was truly forlorn when I lost it. Yes, hats are powerful – wear yours with pride.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110548607211,"sku":"69 Millinery Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-ISSUE69.jpg?v=1527265236"},{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-68-carnival","title":"Issue 68 Carnival","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eJanuary\/February 2016\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eI AM OFTEN ASKED WHERE I GET THE IDEAS FROM FOR EACH ISSUE. In the words of Sir Paul Smith: “You Can Find Inspiration in Everything – And If You Can't, Look Again.” That is true: in this instance my inspiration came from Penny our events organiser. She took a sabatical in the summer to travel in Colombia – I am inspired by her courage and by the stories she has told of her adventures. Then Nelson Sepulveda, a talented stylist, spoke to me with such passion of his native Chile and of the designers Valentina Hoyos and Veronique Rolland Valdes – who are working with indigenous people in South America to create socially responsible textiles – and the Carnival Issue seemed inevitable. While curating the magazine my journey of discovery introduces me to many sources of inspiration. This is as likely to come from another time as it is another place. Dani Trew comments on the designers working today who have taken inspiration from the political landscape of the 1970s, as well as its craft aesthetic. We are introduced to contemporary artists making statements with crochet, the most flexible of textile techniques. The texture and sculptural qualities of crochet are also evident on the runway in the work of Helen Rödel and Kate Jenkins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA mountain of alpaca blankets! They must be only in black or white or possibly a salt \u0026amp; pepper mix. They come from Chile or Bolivia and I spread them everywhere; my bed, my sofa... I love being at home in winter. When I am out I wear a big cashmere shawl from India or Nepal, wool knitted sweaters and socks; all natural dye only. And on top it is always either a felted chechia from Tunisia or a simple black beret from Basque, Spain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMy study at home is north facing so it can get pretty cold in winter. To keep off the chill I pull on my all-encompassing camel-coloured cashmere djellaba haggled for in the souk in Marrakech, Morocco. At least, I did until I recently gave in and bought the ubiquitous Uniqlo lightweight down jacket. It is so neat and easy to wear it’s unbeatable at keeping me snug. It also makes the perfect travelling companion as it packs up into a tiny ball that fits in my handbag. I never leave home without it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo as the year turns I resolve to walk the Inca trail from Cuzco to the ruins at Machu Picchu, following in the footsteps of Annie Zander who tells the story of how she turned her inspiration into a thriving business, Peruvian Connections, twenty-five years ago. Make our stories part of your story in 2016: and whether you are inspired to bake a cake, take a craft holiday or design a range of rugs, post your pictures on instagram using the hashtag selvedgestories.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110546870507,"sku":"68 Carnival Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Print","offer_id":48116466352363,"sku":"68","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV68-305MM.jpg?v=1527265236"},{"product_id":"selvedge-magazine-issue-67-migration","title":"Issue 67 Migration","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003eNovember\/December 2015\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-67-sample-article.pdf?977076513529000103\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_29cdccde-2f9c-4f4e-a1f1-15ddab340c7b_large.png?v=1504180679\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_c3d761a7-7b4e-4409-abc2-5698b71069d9_large.png?v=1504180733\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMASS MIGRATION has dominated the news in recent months. The exodus of half a million refugees northwards through continental Europe has been met, for the most part with kindness and compassion; but also anxiety at the threat this places on cultural identity. The reality, however, is likely to be a strengthening of the rich cultural traditions that stretch from the Austrian Tyrol across the Alps and onwards to the Black Forest, which we highlight in this issue. We take a peek inside a mountain chalet and stroll around Nürnberg’s Christmas market to take in the scents of the season – pine, ginger, cinnamon and beeswax. It is these scents that conjure up the nostalgia we feel for the holidays by awakening memories of family celebrations. Katia Johansen explains how scent triggers memories deep inside the brain and explores the long relationship textiles have had with fragrance. Amanda Carr brings us-up-to date and considers the new relationship artisan perfumers have with cloth. Fragrance has been a traditional Christmas gift since Melchior presented Jesus with frankincense, once greatly valued throughout the Middle East. For our part we hope to inspire you with our annual gift guide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo this holiday spare a thought for the refugees making memories of spending their first holiday in new countries. Their tenacity is admirable and reminds me of that of the Women's Social and Political Union. Nicola Donovan explores how textiles were employed by the suffragettes in their struggle for equality a hundred years ago. I wish you a happy and fragrant festive season and hope to see you at one of our Artisan Fairs in London and Bath. This issue we say goodbye to Beth Smith and thank her for her contribution to the magazine over many years and welcome Grace Warde-Aldam to the Selvedge team.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":30369139719,"sku":"67","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110545199339,"sku":"67 Migration Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV67-305MM.jpg?v=1527265235"},{"product_id":"issue-66-india","title":"Issue 66 India - currently only available as a digital copy","description":"\u003cp style=\"tab-stops: 167.0pt;\"\u003ePlease note Issue 66 is now only available as a digital copy, there are no print copies available at this current time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeptember\/October 2015\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e“I can’t believe you paid that much for a dress!” says my husband as he checks our bank statement. To be honest I’m slightly embarrassed myself. However I know it was right for me. It’s a great shape, good colour and divine texture. It is very me and works with things I already have – I love it. And that feeling, that emotional connection to cloth, has nothing and yet everything to do with money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis special issue devoted to India has brought home the almost incomprehensible wealth and variety of textiles that are made or originate from the sub-continent. The emotional attachment I feel for cloth is shared by the people of India, from the wealthy who wear the designs of Sabyasachi Mukherjee to village women who work in the fields adorned in colourful saris. We could fill another three issues with the beautiful material we had to leave out. But above all it is the dizzying contrasts that stand out. We found fear and hope amongst those working in the hand loom sector of textile production – when we should have found immense pride. We were filled with wonder when we saw the exuberant, colour-filled streets of Rajasthan. We were shown the joy a Kanchipuram silk wedding sari represents and were made to face the horror of understanding, as Lucy Siegle urges us to, just where our high-street bargains come from. Whether we choose to acknowledge it or not, our adoration of fashion is so often a tainted love.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce I read Lucy Siegle’s article my dress didn’t seem so expensive. I had supported my favourite store, they can tell me who made it and where. Deep down we all know someone has to pay the price for our clothes and furnishings – if it’s not us then who is it?\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\" data-mce-style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\" data-mce-style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\" data-mce-style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\" data-mce-style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31157460743,"sku":"66 India Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV66-305MM.jpg?v=1550018954"},{"product_id":"issue-65-pop","title":"Issue 65 Pop","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2015\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-65-sample-article.pdf?9305179715205353989\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_29cdccde-2f9c-4f4e-a1f1-15ddab340c7b_large.png?v=1504180679\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_c3d761a7-7b4e-4409-abc2-5698b71069d9_large.png?v=1504180733\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYOU MIGHT think the link between music and textiles is a tenuous one, but I’d point out that if you stretch a textile over a hollow object and strike it you can create a rhythm. Add a string pulled taught across a sound board and you have the beginnings of an orchestra.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt’s not classical music we look at this issue, but the popular music of the mid 20th century. A fertile period when the boundaries between art, music and fashion began to blur. We begin with Sonia Delaunay whose paintings, textiles and garment designs were inspired by the jazz popular in the 1930s. Later designers took their lead from artists such as Andy Warhol and Piet Mondrian, and Sarah Jane Downing examines the impact of the art world on the way we dressed in the 1960s. This was a period of great energy – energy that has sustained textile designers such as Gudrun Sjödén and Pat Albeck throughout their long and prolific careers. Both women have brought their unapologetically bold, bright style to a mass audience and continue to inspire today.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother artist who finds inspiration in music is Nick Cave with his incredible Sound Suits. Recent graduate Nadia-Ann Ricketts makes sound tangible by digitally analysing the patterns inherent in sound waves and translating them into stunning woven silks. Finally we look towards those continuing to capture the relaxed style instigated in the golden era of pop – Japanese brand 45rm and American designer Erica Tanov. Either would look great if you are planning to dance the night away at a festival this summer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePOLLY LEONARD, FOUNDER\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31160008647,"sku":"65","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110543200491,"sku":"65 Pop Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV65-305MM.jpg?v=1527265233"},{"product_id":"issue-64-ageless","title":"Issue 64 Ageless","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2015\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-64-sample-article.pdf?15682832707032592477\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_29cdccde-2f9c-4f4e-a1f1-15ddab340c7b_large.png?v=1504180679\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_c3d761a7-7b4e-4409-abc2-5698b71069d9_large.png?v=1504180733\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI AM DRAWN TO Georgian architecture: a flat fronted town house would be my dream. The elegant proportions and calm panelled interior speak to me of timeless beauty. I think the marriage of Georgian architecture and mid-century modern furniture is a harmonious one. These two periods have a distinctive aesthetic, and an enduring appeal. What is it about some designs that transcend their time?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYves Saint Laurent said “Fashions fade, style is eternal” and this issue is dedicated to that excellent idea. We visit the Parco dei Principi Hotel in Sorrento, designed in the 60s by Gio Ponti. The geometric tiles and graceful furnishings were a fitting backdrop for the spring\/summer collection of one of our favourite designers, Daniela Gregis. Her sympathetic shapes and sensitivity to cloth flattered our 71 year-old model Benedetta Barzini. We hope it will please Amanda Carr who shares her strong opinions on the limitations of “age appropriate” dressing in this issue and, more regularly, on The Women’s Room blog.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLooking to interiors, 2015 marks the 200th anniversary of the death of Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, founder of the factory that popularised Toile de Jouy. V\u0026amp;A curator Sarah Grant explains its ongoing appeal. It’s also the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo on the 18th June and Sarah Jane Downing looks at the military influence on fashion. And, since we are talking dates, our Spring tour continues and we hope to see you at Chelsea Old Town Hall, London on the 25th April or at The Subscription Rooms, Stroud on the 16th May!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":45836203819243,"sku":"64","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110542610667,"sku":"64 Ageless Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV64-305MM.jpg?v=1527265232"},{"product_id":"issue-63-pattern","title":"Issue 63 Pattern","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2015\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e“WE LIVE IN A UNIVERSE OF PATTERNS:” so begins Ian Stewart’s book Nature's Numbers, a field trip that takes the reader on a sightseeing tour of the universe. The ability to recognise and therefore predict patterns is one of the things that makes us human, and pattern making is intrinsically linked to human intelligence. Patterns are found everywhere, from cell structure and pine cones to the stripes on the back of a tiger. The study of pattern helps us link mathematics and music to visual art and, metaphorically, ignites fireworks in the brain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePattern is evident in all cultures, as Ron Eglash discovered while studying fractal structures in indigenous African architecture. He then stumbled across four-fold symmetry while searching for fractals in Native American weaving. The desire to order the world around us with pattern is instinctive, it enables to make sense of, and control, our surroundings. The astonishing painted interiors photographed by Deidi von Schaewen in Mauritania demonstrates this. As does the work of Yoyoi Kasama, an artist and cult figure in her native Japan. Kasama’s work makes concrete her insatiable need to repeat and repeat elements to manage her universe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBut patterns are not always what they seem. Apparently abstract designs can be steeped in symbolism, as Dr Keireine Canavan uncovered whilst studying Bedouin Al-Sadu weaving in Kuwait. The pattern making instinct can be so strong, and is so popular, it can ignite a career - as it did for both Gabrielle Soyer and Kustaa Saksi who have created life affirming patterns for the famed Finnish design house Marimekko. It also drives many of the designers exhibiting in our Spring Fairs in Bath, London and Stroud. I do hope you can can join us for these events.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31162397191,"sku":"63 Pattern Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Print","offer_id":48116466090219,"sku":"63","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV63-305MM.jpg?v=1550018951"},{"product_id":"issue-62-thread","title":"Issue 62 Thread (digital only)","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-62-sample-article.pdf?9491744905086740712\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_32156de4-981c-48b7-9551-e754dea106c8_large.png?v=1504369278\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_8eceb0f6-a947-43d6-b1c1-6e73c57f3806_large.png?v=1504369126\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2015\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eText and textiles are inextricably linked. The word text comes from the Latin ‘woven’. The history of textiles has added richness to our language, but also misunderstandings.The collective noun “linens” is used to describe bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles traditionally made of linen but now as likely to be made of cotton. Another misunderstanding exists around the term tapestry. Tapestry is a weft faced woven cloth, where the image and the structure are one and the same. Confusingly the term is also used to describe a decorative wall piece embroidered on a pre-woven ground, such as the Bayeux Tapestry. I hope in this issue to highlight the difference between these two techniques by examining some fine examples of both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFirst of all, tapestry: we look at its origins in the Gobelins workshop in Paris, its dissemination to the merchant classes in the town of Aubusson, and finally a contemporary interpretation in the work of Fiona Rutherford. Turning to embroidery we see fine examples of the English tradition; how it was interpreted in the New World and a contemporary reinvention at the hands of an embroiderer and her Irish machine seen in collections of Erdem, Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou. This as well as hand stitched designs by casey and casey, beautifully photographed by Marie Taillefer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRhonda Sonnerberg, one of our contributors, commented recently that T.S. Eliot erred when he wrote that “April is the cruellest month” – it is January, when the glow and merriment of the holidays is past and gardens seem barren. Hopefully she’ll spot the abundance of flowers in this issue, hand crafted by Maison Legeron, photographed by Vee Speers and scattered around the home of Jeanette Philipse. They bring Valentine’s Day to mind and hint that spring is just around the corner...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31223290759,"sku":"62 Thread Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV62-305MM.jpg?v=1550018950"},{"product_id":"issue-61-north","title":"Issue 61 North","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-61-sample-article.pdf?2089863358500738681\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_32156de4-981c-48b7-9551-e754dea106c8_large.png?v=1504369278\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_8eceb0f6-a947-43d6-b1c1-6e73c57f3806_large.png?v=1504369126\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA FEW YEARS AGO Lidewij Edelkoort curated an exhibition, NorthandSouth, in Stockholm. The exhibition paired objects from Scandinavia and Africa – geographically disparate parts of the world – yet what was surprising about the exhibition was the similarities, not the differences, between objects as diverse as spoons and blankets. The shared aesthetic was based on simplicity and integrity born out of economic necessity. In this issue we look North where the use of textiles is linked to survival in the harsh climate. We explore the work of fashion designers from Greenland, Iceland and the Faroe Islands, through the beautiful photographs exhibited at\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Nordic Fashion Biennale, imagined by photographers Sarah Cooper and Nina Gorfer. The exhibition, which is called The Weather Diaries and is now on show at the National Museum of Photography in Copenhagen, explores how the homeland of the designers has informed their practice. I hope you will take the time to visit our blog and view the video which documents their process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe have beautiful images from Bryan Alexander, a travel photographer who specialises in documenting the life of the Arctic’s indigenous peoples and the issues that affect them. He has spent more than 40 years working in isolated native communities around the Arctic and introduces us to the costumes and culture of the Finnish Sami. Their intricately embroidered costumes make me feel Christmas is on the way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Nordic countries have always been a hub of creativity. But their traditions are not locked in the past as Annhelén Olsson explains in her article about wool embroidery from the south of Sweden. The same is true of Ryijy Rugs, that emerged in the 16th century and grew in popularity until, by the 1960s, they were a part of most Finnish homes. If you want to recreate a Scandinavian interior Diana Woolf highlights talented designers in Insider Trading, and the apartment of textile atelier Violise Lunn, offers festive inspiration. I’m looking forward to putting up my decorations and wish you all a happy holiday!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31224502599,"sku":"61","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110540382443,"sku":"61 North Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV61-305MM.jpg?v=1527265230"},{"product_id":"issue-60-knit","title":"Issue 60 Knit","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKNITTING IS A TECHNIQUE for creating cloth by looping a single thread. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The structure is intrinsically weaker than a woven cloth, yet more flexible. It is this flexibility that has accounted for its success. Where weave structures have stayed pretty constant since the industrial revolution, knitting has continued to evolve, as Freddie Robins notes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe vast majority of clothing manufactured today is knit. As soon as the sag – the bane of all knitters, created by the imbalance of weight and scale of loop – was eliminated with the invention of spandex and lycra,\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eknits have become ubiquitous. The streetwear\/ sportswear of today is a homage to the flexibility of knits. The revolution started slowly in the 1920s when Gabrielle Chanel made outerwear from knitted underwear. The stretch and flexibility of knit structure suited her modern relaxed style. This aesthetic is continued today in the work of another french designer, Catherine André. Her sophisticated knit collections utilise the attribute of knitted structure to create organic pattern and multi-colour effects that are not limited by the warp and weft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe complex patterning made possible by knit structure has become the tour de force in Fair Isle, where the yolk of a traditional sweater can have as many as five colours: although surprisingly there is only ever two in each row. The 700 islands, bathed in clear northern light dotted around the Scottish coast are renowned for their textiles, and none more so than Harris off the west coast, whose tweed is world famous. This cloth is an embodiment of the island and its people. The simple structure is woven by hand in crofts from native fleece traditionally dyed with dye derived from native plants, before being blended to create the complex palette we see in the cloth. The connection between the land and the cloth has been sensitively captured in Ian Lawson’s photographs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are not able to make it to Shetland for Wool Week which is celebrated during the second week in October then why not indulge in some of Katie Mawson’s delicious knitted accessories, at our Winter Fair. We hope to see you there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31225923015,"sku":"60 Knit Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Print","offer_id":48116463403243,"sku":"60","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV60-305MM.jpg?v=1550018948"},{"product_id":"issue-59-folklore","title":"Issue 59 Folklore (digital only)","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/issue-59-sample-article.pdf?2374503764306500460\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_32156de4-981c-48b7-9551-e754dea106c8_large.png?v=1504369278\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_8eceb0f6-a947-43d6-b1c1-6e73c57f3806_large.png?v=1504369126\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is only available \u003cstrong\u003edigitally\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI RECENTLY HAD LUNCH WITH with Gudrun Sjödén during the preview of her retrospective exhibition Gudrun Sjödén: 40 years in Fashion, at the Kulturen museum, in the South of Sweden. After we had eaten the curator suggested we look at the goodies – it wasn’t figurative painting or sculpture she had in mind but the folk art embroidery. These gems, produced by ordinary people with no formal art training, had a Joie de vivre that is often harder to find in traditional “high art”. The brightly coloured, sometimes crude, sometimes sophisticated, pieces seem to have a depth of meaning that “fine artists” can struggle to communicate. In contrast folk art effortlessly demonstrates the hand of an individual maker, as well as the history of an entire culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis summer’s exhibition at Tate Britain is British Folk Art, Curator Martin Myrone discusses the highlights and hopes the show will bring this genre to greater public attention. Another curator, James Russell, thinks he became infected with the folk art bug after visiting the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe. James is the author of Peggy Angus: Designer, Teacher, Painter, the subject of an exhibition at the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne. Many of Angus’s contemporaries working in textiles in the mid 20th century, including Phyllis Barron, Dorothy Larcher and Enid Marx came to the fore using block printing. Design historian Lesley Jackson traces the genealogy of this process and finds that, although the appeal of folk art is still strong, economic necessity is driving makers towards different means to communicate their ideas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf we examine art history an interest in folk culture is a recurring theme. In Denmark photographer Trine Søndergaard, has captured the iconography of folk culture in her arresting series of images Strude. The artist Frida Kahlo was fascinated by the folk culture of her native Mexico. For a closer look at this vibrant culture read Hilary Simon’s whistle stop tour of Mexican textiles or visit the exhibition at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum Made in Mexico, The Rebozo in Art, Culture \u0026amp; Fashion. Images of Frida wearing traditional costume has enthralled many, including Susanne Bisovsky, a Viennese fashion designer who puts her own Austrian twist on the familiar image and whose photograph of Alexandra Liedtke graces our cover. This mix of cultures, histories and styles updates folk art for a contemporary audience. In the Selvedge office we are lusting after Stella Jean’s collection, which blends 1950s inspired fashions with references to her Haitian roots and demonstrates how fantastic fusions can be...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31246202375,"sku":"59 Folklore Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV59-305MM.jpg?v=1550018947"},{"product_id":"issue-58-blue-white","title":"Issue 58 Blue \u0026 White","description":"\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA FEW YEARS AGO I was lucky enough to be invited to view the flax fields of Northern France. It was enchanting to look back towards the beaches at the panorama created by the ultramarine of the sky, the Antwerp blue of the North Sea and the soft cerulean of the flax flowers. Surprisingly the majority of the world’s supply of linen is grown in an area that stretches from Cean in the South to Amsterdam in the North; but it is less surprising to learn that the same area has a rich textile heritage as well as a thriving fashion industry today. The affluence of the area is due in no small part to the textile trade that has its roots in the middle ages. Our travel feature on the Low Countries, presents a snapshot of this rich history as well as a glimpse of the work of contemporary designers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe legacy of linen is strong in the region and I love this fabric for its relaxed contemporary feel and also for its strength. The fact that it can hold its shape within an open structure is a quality that makes linen ideal for the production of lace. The significance of the lace in the 17th century can not be underestimated, as Annabel Talbot explains in her article The Personal is Political. Many modern artists and designers reference the vocabulary of lace in their work such as Iris Van Herpen. The European Union is conscious of this importance of the lace industry and initiated the Crysalis project to provide opportunities to combine knowledge and tradition with technology. Nicola Donovan reviews the exhibition Lace Effects 1, part of the project at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion in Calais.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn my opinion, the only thing that can improve on the quiet beauty of linen is indigo dye – considered by many to be the most popular colour in the world. Unlike linen, which has a specific geographic origin, indigo exists in some form on every continent. The image of Gandhi, in his undyed khadi cloth is familiar to us, but it is fascinating to learn of his connection to indigo. In this issue we also see indigo in The Kojima Family factory in Japan, in the African indigo fabrics from Benin used in the Heartwear collection, and as delicate garments designed by Chinar Farooqui from India. Both Heartwear and Farooqui are exhibiting at our Fashion Fair in Bath. If you are not able to make the fair I do hope you enjoy reading about their beautiful work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31246462471,"sku":"58 Blue \u0026 White Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV58-305MM.jpg?v=1550018946"},{"product_id":"issue-57-meteorological","title":"Issue 57 Meteorological","description":"\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTHE BRITISH PREOCCUPATION WITH WEATHER is our defining characteristic: but it’s much more than a conversational crutch. As the terrible flooding this year has shown us we are, quite often, at the mercy of the elements. But battling adverse conditions can bring out the best in us, on a human level and also in terms of innovation. In this issue we have in-depth articles that look at two fields where textiles have saved lives and helped mankind make the most of the world around us. In Climate Control, Marie O’Mahony examines how ‘agro textiles’ are increasing food production and assisting in the clean-up of environmental disasters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile in Water off a Duck’s Back, Mary Rose and Mike Parsons reveal what they call “the long, slow revolution” that lies behind high-performance, outdoor textiles. Comfortable waterproof fabrics are something of a textile holy grail and the search is not yet over. I hope that in the near future a clever textile engineer will devise a better alternative to sandbags.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithin textiles it is the dyeing of fibre and cloth that we associate most closely with water. Many of you will be familiar with the magic that is the oxidisation process that occurs when cloth is dyed with indigo. Perhaps less well known but no less fascinating is saffron, Spun Gold. The violet crocus contains tiny orange ‘threads’ as precious as gold. The flowers are painstakingly harvested by hand and processed to produce this iconic shade of orange. Colour pervades this issue, and Ptolemy Mann meets three designers who respond to it in very different ways; see On the same Wavelength. In Nature Trail, Beth Smith admires the vivid botanical prints, and the business acumen, of Clarissa Hulse, a designer celebrating 20 years in the industry. Alison Taylor of Sula, Perfect Weekend, is another designer whose use of colour is intrinsic to her success. Her silk clothing is made and photographed in Vietnam, a beautiful country where ancient craft skills can still be seen. Iain Stewart’s words and Jamie Marshall’s photographs introduce us to its wonders in Ladies in Red. But you don’t need to travel to Vietnam to see the Sula collection; just visit the Selvedge Fashion Fair, a new event in the Selvedge calendar in association with Bath in Fashion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31248428679,"sku":"57 Meteorological Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Print","offer_id":48116459438315,"sku":"57","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV57-305MM.jpg?v=1550018945"},{"product_id":"issue-56-hollywood","title":"Issue 56 Hollywood","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2014\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLONG JANUARY EVENINGS provide the ideal opportunity to indulge in a little escapism. Nothing lifts the spirits quite like losing oneself for an hour or two in a play or a good film. For me it is often the costumes that steal the show and enable me to escape into another world. In this issue Nicola Donovan has explored the work of costume designers Sandy Powell, Colleen Atwood and Jacqueline Durran, who, between them, have 23 Oscar nominations. Every costume designer has a different approach to the process, and Jenny Tiramani is another professional with a distinctive ethos. After leading a highly skilled team at Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, Jenny\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTiramani has devoted the last decade to studying and teaching the accurate reconstruction of historic dress. In her article, Ready for their close-up, she explains the role of her recently founded School of Historical Dress and why accuracy is important in the theatre and on screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI recently had the honour of judging a charity “Fantasy Fashion Show” in aid of the Karenni people in Burma. Many of you will have met Beryl Lee, Chairman of The Karenni Student Development Programme, at textile shows here and in France as she also supports the people of the Thai\/Burma border by selling their beautiful textiles. The schoolgirls taking part in the show had clearly enjoyed the process of designing and making their own dresses and it was delightful to observe the revival of interest in dressmaking firsthand. The BBC’s Great British Sewing Bee is another aspect of the renewed fascination and it is good to see it on our screens. Learning, or brushing up, our dressmaking skills has never been easier; Carolyn Denham and Yoshiko Tsukiori, are two businesswomen providing domestic crafters with tools, patterns and plenty of inspiration. If you fancy running up a period piece then look no further than The Commercial Pattern Archive. It houses 56,000 and just browsing the collection is great fun. Trying to date the garments is an addictive game – I discovered that the differences between the decades is surprisingly difficult to spot!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31317365511,"sku":"56","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110535598315,"sku":"56 Hollywood Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV56-305MM.jpg?v=1527265226"},{"product_id":"issue-55-treasure","title":"Issue 55 Treasure - digital copy available only","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlease note this is now only available as a digital copy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e“WHERE IS HE WHO HAS BEEN BORN KING OF THE JEWS? For we have seen His star in the East and have come to worship Him....Then they opened their treasures and presented him with gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh.” Matthew 2:1-2\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI’m fascinated by these mysterious visitors, not only because they clearly have the best costumes in any nativity, but also by the strange gifts they presented. But perhaps, in our post crash society, it’s another character we can relate to; “The Little Drummer Boy” who, in the classic carol, who offered only his skill. It’s nice to think that more and more of us are recognising that time is the most precious gift we can give. Perhaps we no longer define ourselves quite so much by what we own? There are a raft of publications to teach us how to live life more simply and the craft movement has taken hold. I certainly believe handmade gifts have greater resonance – it’s just finding the time. If you have an hour or two to spare we have a charming Antique Silk Wheat Warmer, for you to sew. But if shopping is your solution don’t be down-hearted. There is a real boom in the kind of personal service only independent stores can provide and a selection of these special places are highlighted in Jane Audas’ feature Quality Street.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe holidays are an opportunity for a little escapism, whether it’s a stay in one of Kit Kemp’s beautifully decorated hotels, or the chance to enjoy some of the wonderful textiles on show this winter; such as the intricate weaving of madder red shawls in Norwich and the Persian-inspired carpets on display as part of the V\u0026amp;A’s Jameel prize. We allow ourselves a little fashion escapism this issue as Kate Cavendish explores the religious iconography found on the garments of Dolce and Gabbana A\/W 2013 collection. But even these stunning textiles are given a run for their money by glorious silk Ikat coats from Uzbekistan, (I like to imagine the Magi wore these with stylishly wrapped turbans). In reality Phillipa Watkins worked tirelessly for five years to re-establish the Ikat weaving industry in the Fergana Valley.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinally I hope to welcome you to the Selvedge Winter Fair at Chelsea Town Hall. Bring friends and make it the start of a new Christmas tradition...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31498731399,"sku":"55 Treasure Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV55-305MM.jpg?v=1550018944"},{"product_id":"issue-54-revive","title":"Issue 54 Revive - this issue is currently only available as a digital copy","description":"\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is currently available as a digital copy only\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI TAKE IT FOR GRANTED THAT TEXTILES ARE A GOOD THING. I know sewing, knitting and weaving help me to relax and judging by the many emails I receive from readers proudly displaying their endeavours, it’s evident that making things enhances our self esteem. But sewing may also be good for your health. New York psychologist, Robert H. Reiner, Ph.D., recently conducted research which illustrated that people engaged in textile related activities experience a significant drop in heart rate, blood pressure, and perspiration rate – three key factors in the measurement of stress. Sewing involves the muscles and the mind, promoting healthier body synergy. The study’s results appear to indicate that sewing helps women to relax while they focus on a creative activity. “The importance of a hobby or creative pursuit cannot be overemphasized,” insists Dr Reiner. “If we don’t allow our bodies to rest from the pressures of everyday life, we are placing ourselves at risk for heart disease or other illnesses.” In our article Frayed, writer Ruth Battersby Tooke illustrates how sewing has been therapeutic for those suffering from mental health issues or bereavement throughout history.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn our July issue I advised readers to begin a creative endeavour today with whatever resources they have to hand. That is exactly the approach emerging fashion designer Momo Wang, adopted. Returning to her home of Jinzhou, China, after graduating from Central St. Martins School of Art in London, Momo bought clothing from a local second-hand market and created new garments – working on her family’s dining table. Her creativity and ingenuity are impressive but she is not alone in finding motivation in the idea of giving new life to used objects. Amelia Thorpe, has discovered a host of makers for whom this is a natural way of working. Similarly the women of the towns around Boujad and Beni Mellal in Morocco used whatever was to hand to create beguiling Boucherouite rugs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat all the artists featured in this issue have in common is a “can do attitude”. Reading about them is life-affirming and inspiring. But before you embark on a project that will see you through the longer autumn evenings, take the chance to get out and about with one of our textile inspired rambles through town and country, devised by intrepid writers Clare Lewis and Becky Jones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI hope you enjoy our sneak preview of the work of recent graduate Gabrielle Vary, one of almost one hundred talented exhibitors who will be showing their work at our Winter Fair. I’m looking forward to welcoming you to our biggest event yet at the Chelsea Old Town Hall on 29th and 30th November 2013. We aim to revive the idea of a traditional Christmas market offering the chance to meet friends, talk to designers, enjoy fine food and find the perfect gifts. We hope to see you there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31498993863,"sku":"54 Revive Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV54-305MM.jpg?v=1550018943"},{"product_id":"issue-53-equatorial","title":"Issue 53 Equatorial","description":"\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWALK ALONG THE CORRIDOR in any school on the last afternoon of the summer term and you can sense the excitement in the air. Just before the bell rings that excitement reaches fever pitch as the atmosphere pulsates with noise and chatter. This energy is the energy of possibilities, the seemingly endless possibilities of the summer, when for a few weeks the constraints of schedules, tests and the pressure of social conformity are abandoned. Children grow most in the summer, physically and emotionally: perhaps the opportunity for creativity stimulates growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn this issue we travel around the equator, to places where temperatures soar but there is no sign of indolence. Though many of the places we visit have fewer resources and limited infrastructure we found evidence of amazing creativity and resourcefulness. In Senegal again and again we see incredible examples of human ingenuity. Ptolemy Mann is impressed by the vibrant plastic rugs of The Société Sénégalise de Nattes en Plastique. Katy Bevan explores this dynamic culture in her piece Weaving the Breath of Life. When people have little and are forced by circumstances to live by their wits remarkable things can happen – just look at Panos de Terra (Cloth of the land): slave made fabric from Cape Verde. The variety of textiles produced in the sweltering heat and humidity of the Lowcountry, that stretches from South Carolina to Georgia on the Eastern seaboard of the United States is also staggering. And for an early example we examine the remarkable, colourful featherwork of Peru.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePatchwork, a perennial favourite with Selvedge readers, finds new forms in the garments created by Lu Flux: look out for other examples by Bokja and Arts and Science whose recycled cloth bags appear on our shopping page. Tracy Chevalier’s new book The Last Runaway, follows a Quaker and expert quilter, Honor Bright, from England to pre-civil war Ohio where she comes face to face with the realities of the slave trade. With so much patchwork you may be tempted to visit the The Knitting and Stitching Shows in London and see the work of Dorothy Caldwell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMy advice to all of the students graduating this month, and launching their careers, is not to wait until they land the perfect job or until their studio space is perfectly appointed to resume their work, but to begin today with whatever resources they have to hand – actually that’s probably something we should all do! I hope you have a wonderful, creative summer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48089706397931,"sku":"53","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31499485959,"sku":"53 Equatorial Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV53-305MM.jpg?v=1550018942"},{"product_id":"issue-52-botanical","title":"Issue 52 Botanical","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI SPENT EASTER IN PROVENCE this year, in a 15th century town house in Bonnieux, as a guest of the wonderful Marston House folk. Jaunts around French markets and trips to churches were the order of the day, but we also visited the perfume museum in\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGrasse. I’m no expert but we enjoyed the spectrum of aromas from spicy and woody to fruity and floral – the variety of scents that nature offers is astounding. In this issue we have explored a similar feast of fibres. Bast Fibres, combine nature’s bounty and human ingenuity and include smooth ratan, textured sisal and rough coir as well as crisp linen and cloud-soft kapok.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNature provides the raw materials for many textiles and also abundant inspiration for their adornment. In Sewing seeds, Sarah Jane Downing translates the language of flowers and explores their meaning and symbolism. This feature is illustrated with examples from the V\u0026amp;A collection which spans five hundred years of floral designs and show roses, carnations and tulips as recurring themes. The global popularity of florals can be seen in the textile collection of The Fragonard Provençal Costume and Jewelry Museum in Grasse. Genevieve Wood shares her knowledge of the colourful Provençal dress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt this time of year our attention turns to emerging designers and graduating students: but this year we decided to acknowledge that most, if not all, new designers owe a debt of gratitude to those who came before. With that in mind we take a moment to review the careers of three female designers - Role Models, - Zandra Rhodes, Caroline Charles and Barbara Hulanicki, who are the epitome of inspiration. These towering figures have influenced scores of students over their decades-long careers and continue to create and innovate. We also hear from five graduating students who have been inspired by figures in the design world, Classic examples. It is difficult to find practical ways to support new talent in these straightened times, but the ancient Livery Companies, achieve just that – with their charitable work they support both students and educational institutions keeping their textile associations fresh. As a student I was the recipient of one of these awards and will be forever grateful for the support I received.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs the weather finally warms up it’s wonderful to head outdoors without piling on several woolen layers and an overcoat. But sunny days require effort of their own kind and now is definitely the time to consider joining, what milliner Eloise Moody calls the “braver people” and adding a hat to your wardrobe – make Ascot your excuse, Moody and Farrell. If that’s too bold, look to the bright floral pattern of Portuguese fashion designer Teresa Martins, instead. Whatever you wear... enjoy your spring. I’ll be heading back to France in June with a group of Selvedge readers to learn the art of block printing from Cameron Short, at Chateau Dumas... I think there is one space left if you would like to join us!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard F\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31509401735,"sku":"52","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110533107947,"sku":"52 Botanical Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV52-305MM.jpg?v=1527265222"},{"product_id":"issue-51-dependable","title":"Issue 51 Dependable","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTHE BLUE PLAQUE ON the wall of no 2 Princelet Street, Spitalfields, East London, commemorates the life of Anna Maria Garthwaite. The legacy of this outstanding English textile designer who worked closely with Huguenot silk weavers, is an impressive one. Hundreds of her original paintings have been preserved alongside samples of fabric at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and at the Victoria \u0026amp; Albert Museum here in London. This year marks the 250th anniversary of her death, and a programme of events has been planned to celebrate the talents and contribution that the Huguenots made to Spitalfields where they sought refuge from religious persecution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhy some things endure while others fade away is one of the mysteries of time. The things that remain with us often seem to have a particular value simply by virtue of their continued existence but they also have an active role to play. Understanding textiles’ rich heritage not only allows us to contextualise the here and now, but also enables the artists and designers of today to create the products of tomorrow. The popularity of the now global Tweed Run, is a testament to the place traditional fabrics hold in so many hearts. Today we are surrounded by the advanced technology of high tech fabrics: but few of these fabrics conjure up the emotional connection so many of us have with tweed. It is reassuring to know that the Harris Tweed industry is still with us, enduring the twists and turns of fashion. Still relevant, it is a delicate balance that the industry maintains in order to make vibrant the skills of the past.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Herero women of Namibia wear splendid garments: as Jim Naughton, makes clear, these clothes are the product of colonial influence yet are far from a pastiche of a bygone age. I don’t advocate holding onto the past once it is no longer relevant. A rigid determination to preserve skills and techniques can be detrimental. We sometimes see this in the artifacts produced by indigenous people across the world, where creating objects for the tourist trade robs pieces of their meaning for the maker and their artistic integrity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCrafts should not be preserved in aspic and forced to adhere to a set of golden rules. On the other hand, the path of ‘progress’ and its hunger for new, faster and cheaper methods can turn out to be a wrong turning; as thatchers Matthew Williams and David Bragg discovered when they set up a company offering long straw thatching, Forgotten Crafts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLisa Tilley blends past and present to give vintage luggage a new lease of life but her individual approach is vulnerable to imitators. My editor Beth Smith grapples with the problems of copyright. Infringement is commonplace and the best way to deal with it is debatable. The past offers inspiration to us all- but use it to make something new for today!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI would like to thank Anthropologie, for their hospitality at The Gallery in their store on the Kings Road. Visit us at The Gallery at Anthropologie, 131-141 King's Road, London SW3 4PW, and look online for events during the second half of our ‘pop up’ store. Or combine a trip with a visit to our Spring Fair! Advance tickets are available at discounted prices. Please see www.selvedge.org for details.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31512001223,"sku":"51","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110531305707,"sku":"51 Dependable Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV51-305MM.jpg?v=1527265222"},{"product_id":"issue-50-ethnographic","title":"Issue 50 Ethnographic","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2013\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCONGRATULATIONS! SELVEDGE is celebrating its 50th issue. The magazine has grown, developed and matured, but most of all inspired everyone involved in it for 50 issues.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen I meet readers they often say what an achievement,\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eyou must be really proud: and of course I am, but it is not my achievement I am proud of. I merely had the idea – ideas are actually pretty worthless in themselves, we all have hundreds of ideas every day – they come and go often without us noticing them. It’s only with a phenomenal amount of hard work, a stubborn refusal to compromise and tenacity to overcome obstacles that one in a million ideas become reality and a tiny bit of magic is born.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver the last ten years I have been inspired every day by the enthusiasm and dedication of my team to conceive issue after issue. I am inspired by the writers and illustrators who have researched extensively and striven to meet our high standards, in order to present lively and informative material in an appealing way. I am inspired by the advertisers who support the infrastructure of the community, as do the curators and galleries who tirelessly host exhibitions, fairs and events.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBut, most of all I am inspired by our readers who buy each and every issue, who renew their subscription religiously, who prioritise the magazine when there are so many other demands on their budgets. The magazine is expensive to print and to ship to all corners of the world. Every subscriber is an important part of the network – so thank you all for making my dream a reality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn every issue I try to present inspirational rather than aspirational material. If you will allow a little self indulgence, we have filled this issue with material that lifts our spirits and hope it will lift yours too. Cloth is central to my life and I share this passion with the people featured in our pages. This issue is full of inspirational cloth, from the pleats of Mariano Fortuny, and Issey Miyake, to the intricate double ikats Ptolemy Mann discovered on her journey through Indonesia. We look to India, a perennial source of inspiration where on January 14th the skies of Gujarat give way to colourful kites. Meena Kadri shares her colourful photographs and insightful proes. We contrast the delicate woven air of Muslin, from Bengal with the minimalist, Gongadi blankets, woven from the wool of the indiginous Deccani sheep from Andhra Pradesh. Closer to home we marvel at Karen Nicol’s exquisite embroidered confections, in an excerpt from her new book Embellished:NewVintage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Spring Selvedge will be the guests of kindred spirits, Anthropologie, at their store on the Kings Road. I would like to invite you all to join me in a glass of wine in celebration of textiles on the 14th February (what better day than Valentine’s to declare your love for textiles) at The Gallery at Anthropologie, 131-141 King's Road, London SW3 4PW, during our seven week ‘pop up’ store: but if you are not able to make that date then I hope to see you at our Spring Fair! Exhibitor applications open on 9th January, please see www.selvedge.org for details. From all of us at Selvedge we send you our warmest wishes for the New Year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31512426311,"sku":"50","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110530584811,"sku":"50 Ethnographic Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV50-305MM.jpg?v=1527265221"},{"product_id":"issue-49-evergreen","title":"Issue 49 Evergreen","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCHRISTMAS TIME IS TRADITIONALLY A TIME OF EXCESS – of exuberance, gluttony and overindulgence – but this year we are advocating a more measured approach to the holidays, shifting our focus to the things that matter most and avoiding unnecessary stress. And that includes selfless activities such as gift giving. Yes, it’s lovely to make things from scratch but most of us just don’t have time to abandon the ready-made in favour of filling our kitchens with gallons of home-made jam and hand stitched decorations – that way madness lies. So make this the year of the meaningful gesture, intimate gathering or memorable event.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSome shopping is inevitable so we offer suggestions for the most interesting gifts around. But when it comes to decorating why not take Gina Portman’s advice, and celebrate the abundance of nature? Or up the ante and follow the lead of Katelyn Toth-Fejel and Sasha Duerr, co-directors of the Permacouture Institute, and host a Midwinter feast. Hospitality is a gift in itself and their “Dinners to Dye For” blend naturally-dyed fabrics and delicious food, using the same ingredients for both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen I sit down with my children to decorate our tree we enjoy the ritual of carefully unwrapping our treasured ornaments. It is the ones with history and a sense of place that we love the most. It is the same with textiles. Aboubakar Fofana’s work, whether a sculptural installation or his collection of table linen, woven from cotton grown in his native Mali and dyed in indigenous indigo, has integrity born of knowledge and an understanding of where things belong, of how and why they have developed. Jeff Garner’s fashion label Prophetik, is also a product of a particular place and time. Garner links the history of his home town, Franklin, Tennessee with his aesthetic vision for sustainable production.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLocation is the key to success of many thriving textile mills, from the felted wool produced by Arpin in the French Alps, to the double cloths of Melin Tregwynt in mid-Wales. We celebrate ingenuity, the ability to see potential in what is readily available locally, and see this in the work of the Fibershed project, the Mongolian people’s use of Yak, and the beautiful, sparse home of Ralf Mååg in Halgås, in Dalarna province, Sweden.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt Selvedge we are busy preparing for our Winter Fair, and hope to be able to welcome you on November 10th. We have gathered over a hundred of our favourite antique dealers, designer-makers and suppliers of haberdashery at The Chelsea Old Town Hall and hope it will be a memorable event.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard,  Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31513235271,"sku":"49","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110529962219,"sku":"49 Evergreen Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV49-305MM.jpg?v=1527265220"},{"product_id":"issue-48-etiquette","title":"Issue 48 Etiquette","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMY SON IS ABOUT to go off to secondary school – life is changing at a faster pace than I would ideally wish, while he is relishing the adventure. As I prepare him for his big day, I have dutifully stitched Cash name labels onto every item of uniform. You may be surprised given the field I’m in: but as a working mother this is almost the only time I pick up a needle and thread. At one time all women were responsible for their household linen and even the wealthiest, who employed others to weave and make up their linens, retained the task of monogramming. The value of the linens necessitated its labelling to prevent confusions during laundry. Embroiderer Victoria Bain examines the importance of a name in her article on the survival of monograms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI recently enjoyed the Chanel Four series All in the Best Possible Taste in which artist Grayson Perry examined what remains of the British class structure. While most people would not wish to go back to the rigidity of the past, great comfort and security can be gained from established rituals and codes of conduct. It is surprising how much manners still mean to most of us in a world of ever-decreasing formality. This informality takes many forms. One only has to look around the arrivals hall in an international airport to see casual dress taken to an extreme. Just fifty years ago flying was considered something to dress up for, and Deirdre McSharry reminisces on the value of respectable dress codes, and Beth Smith, mourns their demise. In parts of the world traditional dress is still worn, at least on special occasions, and when it is as beautiful as the Korean Hanbok it’s no surprise. Photographer Kim Kyung Soo captures the grace of this costume in his Full moon Story.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrance, often considered to be more formal in its forms of address than the rest of the world, has a rich textile heritage as described by Genevieve Woods in Southern Charm. She also takes an in depth look at the innovations and industries that gave rise to that heritage in Lyon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou will note that after six successful fairs at St Augustine's Church Hall, it is time to move on. Although we loved the atmosphere of the old church hall, we have struggled to accommodate visitor numbers. So we would like to formally invite you to our next fair on Saturday November 10th at Chelsea Old Town Hall, King's Road, London: a stylish and spacious venue with good visitor facilities and excellent transport links. Practical considerations aside we won’t be pursuing change for the sake of change – you can expect the same high quality exhibitors, a friendly atmosphere and good company. Our Winter Fair, will be a place to mix with like-minded people, make new friends and get together with old ones. I hope we will see you there and, since we’re on the subject of good manners and etiquette this issue, I’d like to thank you for supporting Selvedge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31513636871,"sku":"48","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110528192747,"sku":"48 Etiquette Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV48-305MM.jpg?v=1527265219"},{"product_id":"issue-47-sporting","title":"Issue 47 Sporting","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eON THE RARE OCCASIONS my mind turns to organized sport I think of a Victoria Wood sketch about a keep fit class. As I recall the instructor suggests Victoria “wears loose clothing” to which she retorts “If I had loose clothing I wouldn’t be coming to this class!”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI may be a little defeatist when it comes to exercise but after reading Ian Wilson’s memories of PE class, I know I am not alone in my dread. The indignities of the changing room are some people’s earliest clothing related memory. Still, we cannot deny that this is the time to celebrate the fittest and the fastest, and they deserve their moment in the sun. Olympians represent the pinnacle of physical fitness but ever since Coco Chanel popularized jersey in the 1920s, the fashion for sport inspired clothing has taken hold. This summer as we marvel at the flexibility of the gymnasts in their team GB leotards, Dr Katharine Ings helps us take a broader look at the career of British designer Stella McCartney, who is responsible for the official kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFour years after the Olympics was hosted by China Tom Bird revisits and takes us on a tour of Suzhou, the textile centre of the country and the site of research and investigation into new fabrics. If Marie O'Mahony’s comment, that the medals awarded this summer will go to the athletes with the most technologically advanced equipment shocks and disappoints you a little, it’s worth remembering innovation is nothing new. The skill and determination that has resulted in today’s high tech equipment evolved over hundreds of years. Sport has come a long way since Carl Jantzen knit his first swimsuit in 1920. Catherine Calvery explores the evolution of the iconic brand and its distinctive ‘Diving Girl’ logo. Converse is another sporting brand with an iconic representative and the fact that he was a real man makes Chuck Taylor, a rarity in the world of marketing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSometimes elements of sportswear become symbols of much more than an activity or exercise. Alasdair Peeble’s has been collecting children’s sportswear for decades. His collection spans clothing from 1700 to 1950. The straw hats he has accumulated are particular gems and in Grasping at straws, he explains how they encapsulate a bygone era.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEmma Fremantle, is someone who would be perfectly comfortable in a world gone by. In her floating home she takes life at a slower pace, pausing to appreciate life in detail. She may not be striving for medals but finds her rewards in smaller things. Enjoy the games in London...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31514464647,"sku":"47","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110526783723,"sku":"47 Sporting Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV47-305MM.jpg?v=1527265218"},{"product_id":"issue-46-souvenir","title":"Issue 46 Souvenir","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWITH THE ROYAL WEDDING LAST YEAR and the Diamond Jubilee in progress, monarchy is having a moment in the sun. And whether you’ll be watching the Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant, hosting a street party or just taking advantage of the bank holiday and heading out of town, there’s no denying most of us welcome a reason to celebrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe coronation brought together the skills of designers, weavers, embroiderers and many others to create a spectacle that would be seen by more people than any previous royal pageant. As a result of television Elizabeth II was the first British Sovereign to be truly crowned “in the sight of the people”. Clare Lewis looks at the work of individual craftspeople during the preparations for the Coronation. Commissions are the lifeblood of the craft economy: events such as royal weddings and coronations provide opportunities for traditional skills to be showcased in their full glory. And though such occasions are in short supply, the infrastructure of our monarchy – the upkeep and repair of stately homes – is an important factor in creating the demand for traditional crafts. Weaver Felicity Irons, recently completed rush matting for the long gallery of Elizabethan mansion Hardwick Hall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the start of the five months of Diamond Jubilee celebrations, Queen Elizabeth II renewed her vow to serve, saying that she wanted to “Dedicate myself anew to your service”. For six decades poise and understated elegance have been the cornerstones of her reign. Much of her public persona was initially fashioned by two men, photographer Cecil Beaton, and designer Norman Hartnell. The latter was responsible for both her wedding and her coronation dress. Other elements of her image, such as her ubiquitous handbag, are more likely to have been her own invention. The contents of her bag though the subject of much speculation, remains a secret so Amy de la Haye sheds light of other historical handbags, and looks at them from a psychological point of view.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eQueen Elizabeth II is the most travelled monarch in history with 256 official overseas visits – no doubt her luggage is impeccably packed. We’re not sure if Neil McAllister lines his suitcase with tissue but this issue he journeys to Pakistan, (the Queen visited in 1961) and discovers wonderful textiles. You’ll have to travel quite far to escape the Jubilee celebrations which are taking place worldwide. If you’ve decided to join in why not make your own souvenir like our pick of this year’s Graduating Students.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31514544583,"sku":"46","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110526259435,"sku":"46 Souvenir Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV46-305MM_1.jpg?v=1527265212"},{"product_id":"issue-45-ingenuity","title":"Issue 45 Ingenuity","description":"\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI HAVE BEEN LOOKING OUT of my window at a bare lavender bed for what seems far longer than a few months. I can’t wait to see the purple flowers with their heady scent filling the garden again. The sight always lightens my mood. We know many of our readers are facing dull days as the economic crisis stretches on and on but this issue we are determined to lift your spirits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo one sets a better example than the Gentlemen of Bacongo, whose gloriously colourful clothing are a visual demonstration of triumph over adversity. Photographer Daniele Tamagni has documented their way of life in images that are alive with optimism. These brave, bold ensembles are a defiant reaction to the terrible conflicts they have witnessed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn comparison it seems laughable to describe fashion as ‘fearless’ but designer Mary Katrantzou, is not afraid to mix patterns and palettes that others might consider dangerous. Her S\/S 2012 collection, photographed by Erik Madigan Heck, is a riot of unrestrained colour. Gorgeous though they are we are not all comfortable wearing clothes that catch every eye. Some of us prefer to express a love for colour in our interiors. In Denmark Rie Elise Larsen, has created a bright and welcoming holiday home with few resources. This thrifty style is something we can all aspire to and is echoed in our How to, vintage dish towel bunting from Nikki Trench. If you enjoy patchwork then make a note that Nikki’s book A Passion for Quilting will be launched at the Selvedge Spring Fair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy ‘being clever with your hands’ you can transform the world around you – a little curiosity has the same effect. Combine the two and and you can create inventions that put your name in the history books – not always for the reason you intended. Eighteen-year-old scientist William Henry Perkin, accidentally discovered a vivid mauve dye while attempting to find a lifesaving treatment for malaria. His discovery changed textile production but until recently Perkin was all but forgotten. The Hidden Heroes exhibition, at the Science Museum shines a light on influential but everyday objects that are often overlooked; plastic clothes pegs, poppers and zips. These inventions make daily life a little easier though we rarely appreciate their ingenuity. For clothes peg collectors Gad Charny and Yoav Ziv, they are much more – they are a route through the mundane to the marvellous. These men find something spectacular in simplicity... that’s probably the best way to brighten your day – every day!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":42110525440235,"sku":"45","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31515636359,"sku":"45 Ingenuity Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV45-305MM.jpg?v=1527265211"},{"product_id":"issue-44-legacy","title":"Issue 44 Legacy","description":"\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/ February 2012\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIT'S THE START OF A NEW YEAR and plenty of people (your gym included) will be trying to convince you that this time is all about looking forward, making changes, striding boldly into the future.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBut we’ve decided to pause instead and take a moment to reflect on the importance of the past. We’ve decided to look at the people that form us and the skills, the technologies that help us function.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou could say our New Year’s resolution is to try and take nothing for granted. That’s certainly something Ptolemy Mann has vowed after her computerised loom broke down and she had to go Back to Manual. Gratitude for the things we have, for the ease of our existence, springs to mind after reading Carol Outram’s account of the ingenuity and skill of the Canadian Aboriginal Peoples, and their ability to cope with extreme temperatures. And if that sounds too hard, Joe Lewis takes us on a tour of the more habitable regions of Canada, and the traditional textiles to be found there...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are things in life that we carry with us, weightless gifts such as good advice, confidence and inspiration. Some of this comes from our parents but, if you are fortunate, they will be reinforced by a special teacher or mentor. June Hill looks at the careers of some of the finest textile teachers of the last eighty years. Many students they inspired went on to inspire others through education or by example – teaching (and learning) is a kind of relay race, the baton is passed from generation to generation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA passion for education is not confined to the classroom, we also look at the career of Derek and Brenda Rawnsley, founders of School Prints Ltd. This young couple were determined to bring contemporary art to children who had no other opportunity to see it. The desire to share knowledge was part of a general desire for improvement in the days that followed the Second World War – in Scotland J \u0026amp; P Coats were building their Needlework Development Scheme.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn air of optimism would be welcome in 2012 so this issue we look at what Gillian Newberry, of Bennsion fabrics, calls “beauty in the third age” and the signs that the fashion industry is accepting greater diversity when it comes to age. From Markos Dutka’s images of Daphne Self in his Portrait of Genius, to the work 80-year-old model Carmen Dell’Orefice. We also look at designers whose demure creations, offer more than the chance to showcase ‘washboard abs’ – fashion that makes it irrelevant whether or not you find time for the gym – that’s one recipe for a Happy New Year!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31516034887,"sku":"44","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110523637995,"sku":"44 Legacy Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV44-305MM.jpg?v=1527265210"},{"product_id":"issue-43-peace","title":"Issue 43 Peace","description":"\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAS THE YEAR DRAWS TO A CLOSE it is a good time to reflect on what has been achieved and what is still to do. This year has seen the loss of one of my favourite magazines: its departure brought home to me the special place it held in my heart. When I received my letter saying publication was to cease it was a sad day. Although new ventures will be born, nothing will fill the space exactly .\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChange can be difficult to deal with and in this issue we look at individuals who worked to document disappearing ways of life. Joaquín Sorolla’ s paintings, The Glory of Spanish Dress, captured regional costumes in his beautiful watercolour paintings and through them conveyed the essence of Spain. In Sweden Artur Hazelius was determined to preserve rural traditions and founded the Nordiska Museet, in Stockholm. The objects, many of them textiles, that he collected for future generations were documented on exquisite, handpainted 19th century catalogue cards. These men grasped the past and held on to it so it wouldn’t be forgotten and for that they have our gratitude. Other things adapt to survive: closer to home we head to Nottingham and explore the history of machine made lace . Today lace, both machine produced and its handmade equivalent, continue to inspire designers. Furne One at Amato Haute Couture celebrates its strength and delicacy in his ‘I am the Queen’ collection, and Carl Bengtsson, shoots divine wedding dresses in a snow-covered Swedish landscape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd there are those who embrace change. In Birmingham Lost in Lace curated by Lesley Miller, pg 36, demonstrates how techniques of the past can provide a springboard to new ways of working. While curator and artist Lucy Orta looks at pattern cutting from a similar perspective in Block Party.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs Christmas draws closer and things become more frantic it’ s worth pausing and trying to find a moment’s peace. Readers often tell us that is what Selvedge offers – the chance to take half an hour out of a busy day to read an article or just enjoy some beautiful images. I want to take this opportunity to thank our loyal readers. However you support Selvedge – in the form of a subscription, attending our events, shopping from our dry goods range or simply by following us through social media you help us publish the magazine and do all we can to promote textiles. This year , as a small token of our appreciation, we have commissioned artist Lesley Barnes to produce an animated Christmas greeting which will be live on our website during Advent. I do hope you enjoy the work of this talented artist. Enjoy a peaceful holiday...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48089704759531,"sku":"43","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31516211527,"sku":"43 Peace Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV43-305MM.jpg?v=1550018935"},{"product_id":"issue-42-intrigue","title":"Issue 42 Intrigue","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOVER THE LAST FEW WEEKS I’ve been addicted to the BBC series Fake or Fortune about mysteries in the art world. The twists and turns in the story are fascinating and like all good detective stories\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI end up dying to know the final outcome. The appeal of a mystery story is wide and enduring, those with a criminal element pique our interest even more. Textiles are often used to solve cases and forensic science, with its ability to identify minute fibres, plays a vital role: but fabrics and fashion were linked to crime long before the era of microscopes. In Crimes of fashion, Sarah Jane Downing looks at the ways textiles were linked with crime and punishment in the past.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eToday textiles play a different role in the life of criminals. Beth Smith finds out more about the work of prison charity Fine Cell Work. Incarcerated for mental illness rather than criminal activity Arthur Bispo do Rosário, nevertheless demonstrates the freedom that creativity gives to those confined.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn an issue devoted to crime and mystery we couldn’t neglect the court system and the role clothes play in its many traditions and ceremonies: John Havelock Teague takes us on a journey through the history of legal dress. Falling neatly between criminal and court are those that bring them to justice – the detective. Most us meet them in the pages of a novel or on screen so we look at the influence fictional detectives have had on fashion, from the tweeds and twinsets of Miss Marple to the flamboyant cape of Sherlock Holmes. The drama inherent in crime is an interesting phenomenon and the backdrops for murderous tales have their own mystery and glamour – lavish country houses, gothic castles and real life locations such as The Orient Express, are a vital part of the mix. Someone else with a great eye for an interesting location is Rusty Tagliareni. His beautiful and haunting photographs of an abandoned mill in Maryland, are part of an ongoing project to save it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe subject of costume and settings bring us to Halloween and this year we celebrate the season with a spooky, textile related short story, The Dressmakers Doll by Agatha Christie. Illustrated by Jen Corace, its inclusion pays homage to the tradition of short story publishing in magazines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe may have been caught up in murder and intrigue this issue but in contrast London comes alive at this time of year. We’ve devoted our news section to events around town but don’t forget to leave a space in your diary for the next Selvedge fair!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31516973127,"sku":"42","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110952308971,"sku":"42 Intrigue Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV42-305MM.jpg?v=1527265208"},{"product_id":"issue-41-coastal","title":"Issue 41 Coastal - currently available as a digital copy only","description":"\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is now only currently available as a digital copy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWE ARE FORTUNATE IN NORTH LONDON to have several places where open air swimming is possible in our neighbourhood. There are the famous Hampstead bathing ponds – a real oasis in the city, open all year round and patronised by enthusiastic individuals. We also have one of the few remaining lidos, built in the 1930s, the Parliament Hill Lido is a vision of blue sky reflected in water surrounded by colourful changing rooms. Although this is undoubtedly a feast for the eyes I am far too lily-livered to enjoy the reality of its icy water. I emerge after the briefest dip slightly nauseous and hyperventilating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe English summertime can be similarly deceptive. I might remember childhood days spent in my grandmother's garden eating Victoria Sponge and lying among the daisies, but deep down I know these occasions were few and far between – dispersed with more usual breezy afternoons when a snug cardigan was much more useful than sun cream. Sometimes hindsight is not so much 20\/20 as distinctly rose-tinted! Distance softens our recollections, blanks out the shivering and recalls instead the sunny moments as our shopping feature, A breath of salt air, admits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis issue we embrace the reality of the summer rather than the fantasy. We celebrate blue, the cornflower blue of the sky and the deep indigo ocean. We find out at how people have protected themselves in the latter, Bathing beauties, looks at the appeal of rubber bathing caps, and A waterman’s tale, tracks the invention of the wet suit. And we discover the brave souls that launched themselves into the former in our article on hang-gliding. Also we celebrate the rich blue of indigo, and its paler cousin woad or pastel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDuring the easter break I was invited to the beautiful Chateau Dumas, just north of Toulouse, an area in south west France famous for its rich textile heritage. I brought back souvenirs of woad soap made by Denise Lambert. She and her husband Henri revived the production of woad, a once lucrative crop which dominated the area and underpinned the renaissance of the city of Toulouse. Woad is not the only industry of interest in the area. A town in the surrounding countryside, Caussade, was once the centre of the straw hat industry. I visited two of the three remaining millinery factories and the simple, undyed, stitched braided hats they craft would be my choice for Ascot if I were to go... and weather permitting maybe I will. I hope you enjoy your summer come rain or shine!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31517310791,"sku":"41 Coastal Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV41-305MM.jpg?v=1550018934"},{"product_id":"issue-40-britannia","title":"Issue 40 Britannia","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e“LIKE THE BRITISH CONSTITUTION, she owes her success in practice to her inconsistencies in principle.” Thomas Hardy is not alone in attempting to sum up the driving force behind the British, but with his paradoxical little aside in The Hand of Ethelberta he comes closer than many others. Contradiction, or pure contrariness as some, such as Luella Bartley, might say does seem to propel the British forward…\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe’re a nation with a long and complicated history but with a reputation for innovation, particularly in fashion and textiles as our round up of new graduates, proves. Tradition is important to us but often just provides something to push against (Britain must be home to the happiest iconoclasts). Symbols of the establishment offered inspiration to the Sex Pistols while remaining a source of pride for patriots as Sarah Jane Downing points out as she traces the history of the Union Flag. Perhaps it is our geographical isolation that fosters an independent way of thinking? Geography certainly plays a part, but again there’s contradiction. We are a green and pleasant land that owes much of its wealth to dark, satanic mills. But we are beginning to understand the beauty of our industrial past as the Queen Street Mill in Lancashire shows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn East Anglia contrast can be found in the textile legacy of the city of Norwich, where early industry brought great wealth but where sleepy villages surround the area’s churches and stately homes, seemingly untouched by commerce. Of course, it wasn’t isolation that ensured the success of Norwich’s textiles. Dutch, Flemish and Walloon settlers known as ‘Strangers’ brought their skills to the region and were an important part of the recipe. Maybe that is a clue? Is it the British ability to absorb and assimilate that is the key to our creative success. Great Britain is a repository of peoples and influences from around the world and has benefited greatly. It’s an approach reflected in our greatest institutions, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum. The world's greatest museum of art and design is an idiosyncratic place offering many different things to many different people. Surprisingly personal for such a vast entity, it contains grand monuments and tiny, intricate works of art, ancient pieces and new works by contemporary artists – it has something for everyone and is worth exploring and celebrating – a microcosm of our entire, wonderful island.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31517458439,"sku":"40","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110519902443,"sku":"40 Britannia Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV40-305MM.jpg?v=1527265207"},{"product_id":"issue-39-localisation","title":"Issue 39 Localisation","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIN THE 20 YEAR PERIOD between 1770 and 1790 cotton production in the UK increased ten fold. This marked the beginning of the industrial revolution that eventually changed the way the world’s population lived and worked. Between 1990, when the first website was launched, and today we have seen a similar 20 year period of rapid and fundamental change. Technological growth has been – or at least seemed – all consuming but some of the effects of this radical shift in the way we communicate, connect and consume have been surprisingly ‘cosy’.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePre-industrial society relied on individual artisans working in rural locations and selling their wares directly to local customers. There was no recourse to a commercial infrastructure of wholesalers and retailers beyond the nearest market town. As populations shifted to urban centres the distance between maker and point of sale increased, first within countries and then on an international scale. Globalization might have the ring of a modern phrase but Charles Taze Russell coined the term 'corporate giants' in 1897 so the idea, and the concerns that surround it, has been around for some time. So who would have expected a computer network first hailed, and reviled, as an anonymous virtual playground would become a route for individuals to connect through a shared love of craft or textiles and rediscover products with a sense of history. Yet incredibly the technical revolution has resulted in craftsmen returning to rural locations, honing their skills and selling their products direct to the customer with the aid of websites like etsy and ebay. Jane Audas explores the resurgence of the artisan in the technological age, and we offer advice to makers eager to launch their careers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThanks to the shrinking global community we have been able to build relationships with makers in all corners of the world, but in this issue we also look at subjects closer to home. Author and broadcaster, Amanda Vickery, explains the significance of linen in the Georgian home. While Gloria Nicol shares her love of vintage clothes pegs, and Jen Edgar from Eucalan offers us advice on stain removal. We try to sweeten the annual spring clean with a round-up of cleaning products, that are both useful and beautiful – William Morris would approve. Which leads us neatly to our article on aesthetic dress, and a glimpse into Whistler’s love of fashion. If they inspire you to live a more ‘beautiful life’ we’d suggest a visit to the Selvedge Spring Fair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31581785479,"sku":"39","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110518198507,"sku":"39 Localisation Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV39-305MM.jpg?v=1527265205"},{"product_id":"issue-38-zoological","title":"Issue 38 Zoological","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2011\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI, LIKE MORE THAN 80% of the population, have enjoyed the companionship of pets all my life. Two elegant and intelligent Blue Burmese cats for the last five years, who, apart from the unwanted gifts they occasionally bring in from the garden, are a joy to have around. Then, just over a year ago our family was invaded by a exuberant red-headed spaniel. She too is wonderful, despite chewing the rugs and destroying no less than four willow dog baskets!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePets are useful in many ways and provide numerous health benefits – mental, emotional and physical. In return many of us indulge and idolise our animals. ‘Pampering’ can take the form of defenceless cats and dogs being squeezed into nylon rabbit costumes – misguided affection at best. At the other end of the scale are the beautiful pullovers modelled by our elegant canines, and photographed by Lon Van Keulen. If you want to find a treat for your dog, we’ve brought together a selection of the best in A dog’s life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf there’s one thing animals offer in abundance it’s inspiration. Peter Clark’s stunning collages, capture the humour and individuality of animals, particularly dogs and he’s not alone. From Osborne and Muir’s knitted companions to Donna Wilson’s curious characters, it seems artists and designers are preoccupied by creatures – great, small and imaginary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrioritising our pets may be common in Western societies but other cultures offer animals different forms of respect, even worship. In Rajasthan, India the immense value of creatures such as the camel is signified by intricately braided regalia. Toni Meneguzzo's ‘Go Puja project’, documents another revered animal, the Hindu Sacred Cow. Colourfully adorned and isolated on a white background their grace and alien beauty comes to the forefront.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStrange and unusual forms of beauty continue as a theme in our article on taxidermy, in which the haunting work of Polly Morgan shares space with bizarre tableaux of card playing squirrels. Death is an unavoidable feature of taxidermy but also shadows many of the fashion world’s interactions with animals. Skins, pelts and hides come at a cost – even silk worms pay a high price. In this issue we highlight more harmonious practices – the gentle gathering of eider down, and the care of baby cashmere goats, – examples of peaceful coexistence that can be a model for us in the New Year. .\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31581970375,"sku":"38","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110517641451,"sku":"38 Zoological Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV38-305MM.jpg?v=1527265204"},{"product_id":"issue-37-dress-circle","title":"Issue 37 Dress Circle","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAT THIS TIME OF YEAR I sit down one Sunday afternoon and write out my Christmas cards. After wishing my entire list a ‘Happy Christmas’ my thoughts turn to how exactly one can ensure one\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e– it’s not an easy task. I think those of us who have overseen a good few holiday seasons have long since realised that it’s not the commercial side of the festivities make us feel good. Every year we generate an estimated three million tons of waste and competitive gift giving always makes us unhappy!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn last year’s Christmas issue (issue 31) we looked at the joys of a handmade Christmas and those ideas are just as relevant now. In the age of austerity homemade gifts are still an excellent idea. This issue’s project, Liberty print bags, doubles as both present and wrapping, and all our previous ideas can still be downloaded from the Selvedge website for free. Of course, we will be buying at least some of our gifts, but we can still look to designers such as Christina Kim, who try to embrace moderation and retain meaning in the collections they create. Christina tries to show the experience, the time, skill and history that goes into her products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd it is the word, “experience’, which is guiding our thoughts this year. If we accept the idea that chasing material goods won’t make us happy then we are left with knowledge that spending time with friends and family will. Our strongest and fondest memories are often of the outings and events enjoyed during Christmases past. If you are in town with a friend, take a break from shopping to see an exhibition together, perhaps the Ballet Russe costumes on show at the V\u0026amp;A, or book tickets to a pantomime, a puppet show, pg 64 or even a Winter circus. Planned in advance they achieve the triple pleasure of anticipation, experience and memory. But you don’t have to travel far for a shared experience, perhaps this is the year to revive traditional home entertainments? We are not seriously suggesting that Paper Theaters, will be able to distract the children from their computers but apparently grown ups can be absorbed for hours...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOur issue theme also sparked an office discussion, we tried to decide if the gift of a subscription, was an object or an experience? It is, in most cases, paper bound and tangible but at the same time we hope Selvedge is more than that – a beautiful thing but also a positive experience. We believe our readers have created a community – and we would like to wish everyone in it a very happy holiday.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31582417223,"sku":"37","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110517018859,"sku":"37 Dress Circle Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV37-305MM.jpg?v=1527265203"},{"product_id":"issue-36-roving","title":"Issue 36 Roving","description":"\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI DO HOPE YOU ALL had a great summer. Travelling across America (see issue 35) was everything I hoped it would be. A highlight was meeting our US readers, some that have been with us for years and others who have just found us and are taking advantage of the lower rates we now offer American subscribers. One of the most memorable parts of my journey was a trek through the Grand Canyon. Americans are justifiably proud of this majestic landscape and of the country’s National Parks. But while I was impressed by these vast areas of untouched wilderness, I thought fondly of Britain’s more domestically scaled landscape, our modest green hills and well-tendered farm land.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt was Bridgette Kelly from the British Wool Marketing Board who reminded me who we need to thank for our pretty countryside. Our landscape depends on grazing animals, particularly sheep, for its close cropped neatness. Without them our green and pleasant land would be much wilder. In the UK we have almost one hundred breeds of sheep who offer an amazing variety of wool, yet it is a handful of breeds bred for meat production that thrive while others are in danger of disappearing completely. The value placed on fleece is so low that farmers pay more to have their sheep sheared than they earn from the wool. Many factors influence the value of wool but if we focus on its amazing inherent qualities – it’s warm, wicks away moisture and is naturally fire retardant – surely we can trigger a renaissance of this fibre? Influential figures such as HRH the Prince of Wales and a growing band of supporters believe we can. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if British Airways joined in by using woollen blankets on their planes, if the government used wool insulation in new buildings, or schools required a wool blazer?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaybe we could all help by investing in a wool coat next time we bought one? If you need wardrobe inspiration visit the Horrockses show at the Fashion and Textile Museum. I love prints with strong colour and confident lines, like Vera Neumann's work, currently re-printed by Anthropologie, and those designed by Gudrun Sjödén. Her long awaited store will open in London’s Long Acre this autumn. September is an exciting time for design in general. During the London Design Festival, there is so much to see it can be difficult to focus so we’ve created a guide to help you find the best of the many things on offer. If you are choosing just one, then please join us as we contribute to the Design Festival and stitch 500 London pigeons at the V\u0026amp;A...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31582581767,"sku":"36","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110515020011,"sku":"36 Roving Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV36-305MM.jpg?v=1527265202"},{"product_id":"issue-35-independence","title":"Issue 35 Independence","description":"\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI’m currently planning an extended trip to the USA this summer. We are hiring a 1959 Airstream Tradewind to visit the Grand Canyon and then on across the country fromseatoshiningsea.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI’m looking forward to meeting lots of our subscribers at the Handweavers Guild of America’s convergence in Alberquerque (18-25 July). I know there will plenty to inspire me, not only at the convention centre, but also in nearby Santa Fe. I hope to visit all the galleries we featured back in issue 12 (pg 36). Technology permitting I plan to send a video postcard or two from my travels but in the meantime we have put together an issue that hopefully captures the spirit and atmosphere of an American road trip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI won’t be able to cover quite as much ground in person as we have on paper. Our imaginary journey begins in the purple mountains of Maine, spend the night in the Marston House and buy a few antiques, before setting out to visit the Brahms Mount weaving mill. Heading south through Massachusetts we’d stop off at the Nantucket Basket Museum. No trip would be complete without a stop over in New York, where we would drop in on Cristina Gitti at matta and Sveta Dressa at her store Pip Squeak, as well as the studio of Wovenplay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFurther south we immerse ourselves in gracious Southern charm, eat fried shrimps, and watch artisans making sweetgrass baskets in the shade of oaks dripping with Spanish moss at Magnolia Plantation on the Ashley river. It’s the place to pause and remember the slaves who picked the cotton that supplied the Lancashire cotton mills, through the Industrial Revolution and beyond – perhaps sewing the seeds of the special relationship between the UK and the USA.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe New Orleans home of chair caner Mary Cooper, represents the heart of America – inspirational rather than merely aspirational and steadfast in the face of disaster. In the Lone Star State we visit Magnolia Pearl, and admire the lavish style of Robin Brown, a lady whose love of texture knows no bounds. Finally in the redwood forests of Northern California we meet up with Erica Tanov, whose sophisticated designs encapsulate a peaceful hippy vibe in an entirely contemporary way. It would be with bursting bags, and a happy heart, that we would end our fantasy trip. But after working on this issue it is with genuine admiration that we praise the integrity, ingenuity and independence of the modern pioneers of American style.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48089677529323,"sku":"35","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31582699527,"sku":"35 Independence Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV35-305MM.jpg?v=1550018930"},{"product_id":"issue-34-romance","title":"Issue 34 Romance","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_60e9986d-cc63-4672-ab5b-d2d9b70f8b07_large.png?v=1505238230\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_d29b4a1d-31ac-45ad-b11d-7d72ed881e9b_large.png?v=1505238220\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI LOVE THE ENERGY, OPTIMISM and ‘can do attitude’ of new graduates - so much so that 60% of the Selvedge team is drawn from our intern programme. We receive many CV's from applicants and, although some of them have been carefully put together by students keen to present the perfect image, over the years we have paid less and less attention to resumés in favour of personal qualities such as persistence, a strong work ethic and a helpful attitude. At a recent conference Stefan G Bucher, writer, graphic designer, illustrator, and creator of the popular online animation series Daily Monster, gave some pithy advice \"Be useful, don't be boring. You will never be hungry or lonely.\" A lot can be said for this approach. It's not easy to make your way in the world but knowing that the best route is from the bottom up makes for an attractive and employable graduate. See what other advice industry figures have to offer, in our feature illustrated by Naomi Avsec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn a recent conversation with Nora Abousteit, co-founder of the social media sewing website Burdastyle, she mentioned that she believes she owes her job to the dress she made herself for the interview. This revelation speaks volumes about our belief in the power of the perfect dress. From the now famous dress that Grace Kelly wore to meet Prince Rainier for the first time during the 1955 Cannes Film Festival, part of the current exhibition at the V\u0026amp;A (which was described as 'Dior-inspired' but was actually an \"easy to sew\" dress from the McCall Patterns magazine) to the fairy tale wedding dresses, which seem to have an unbreakable hold on otherwise rational women.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRelationships romantic, platonic and creative are explored in this issue. Putting our qualms to one side, we indulge our romantic side with vintage veils and hand-crafted confections by Basia-Zarzycka in our Wedding Feast shoot, and the enchanting illusions of Isabelle De Borchgrave's paper dresses. We include the intriguing installation by Nina Saunders and Tracey Neuls commissioned to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Sanderson, and the more challenging collaboration in Cultex. The complexities of relationships are explored in Jane Campion's Bright Star, which charts the relationship between Fanny Brawne and John Keats but also touches on the value of professional relationships, on the pride and independence that women can draw from their own abilities and skills. Romance is all well and good but few of us can afford a completely rose-tinted view point!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31582856583,"sku":"34","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110514102507,"sku":"34 Romance Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV34-305MM.jpg?v=1527265201"},{"product_id":"issue-33-quilt","title":"Issue 33 Quilt - available as a digital copy only","description":"\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is now only available as a digital copy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTHE IDEALISED IMAGE of a group of women huddled together supporting each other through life’s difficulties while working communally on a quilt is enduring and comforting. Whether or not it is true is another matter. Hollywood likes the idea, it appears in Peter Weir’s ‘Witness’ and ‘How to make an American Quilt’, and novelists too make use of this example of feminine solidarity. Some are wary of mythologising a craft that was, for many who perfected it, a skill born of harsh necessity. The wives of unemployed miners, who made quilts to make ends meet during the 1930 were stitching for survival not social entertainment, that was left to the patrons of Claridges who slept beneath their handiwork. In some ways the beautiful stitched designs and the intricate patchwork that women made are marks of pride and defiance in the face of difficult circumstances.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAmericans are rightly proud of their quilting traditions but they share them with every country where thrift is part of everyday life, and isn’t that everywhere in the world? The technique is traced to Ancient Egypt and can be found in kanthas, the stitched quilts of Bangladesh and Japanese Boro textiles: the oldest quilt I know of is the Tristan quilt from Sicily which was made in the 14th century. Today, it is in the permanent collection of the V\u0026amp;A Museum, London, a fitting location as the UK has an illustrious quilting tradition. We also have an unfortunate tendency to hide our talents under a bushel. Hopefully the major spring exhibition at the V\u0026amp;A Museum will change that. Skillfully put together by Sue Prichard, Quilts 1700-2010, explores the stories told in 65 British quilts from the last three hundred years, from figurative 19th-century quilts to the work of contemporary artist Natasha Kerr. The exhibition inspired us to put together our first ‘technique themed’ issue and in doing so we have been struck by the commitment and energy of the women who champion craft, from the dedication of Jen Jones to Welsh quilts, to Denise Lewis’ desire to revive rural traditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe exhibition’s launch comes in the middle of British Museum director Neil MacGregor’s radio series TheHistoryoftheWorldin100Objectsin which he is attempting to tell a history of the world through objects in The British Museum’s collection (daily, 9.45am, BBC Radio 4). To date there has not been a quilt – but if this issue has taught me anything it’s that a great deal can be discovered by piecing together the clues found in a quilt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110513185003,"sku":"33 Quilt Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV33-305MM.jpg?v=1527265200"},{"product_id":"issue-32-altitude","title":"Issue 32 Altitude","description":"\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2010\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-1\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI WOULD LIKE TO THANK everyone who has made the journey up to Highgate to visit our shop. We love meeting our readers and talking to you about the talented artists we have featured in the magazine over the years. As well as a shop, 162 Archway Road is where we put the magazine together and as such I cannot always guarantee to be available whenever you drop by. If you are making a special journey and would like to talk, do call ahead and let us know so we can arrange to make you feel welcome.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is exciting to greet a new decade. Although Selvedge was not even an idea ten years ago it has certainly changed my life over the last decade. It is interesting to reflect how our lives might change over the next ten years. A new generation of artists and designers will create work destined to enrich our lives. To celebrate the turning of the decade we asked ten of our friends, what would be left in their lives if they eliminated all non-essentials. What remained is a collection of the timeless, the simple, special and, above all, personal textiles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne of the things we are hoping for in 2010 is greater economic stability and, with that in mind, would like to thank the readers and advertisers who have continued to support the magazine during recent turmoil. In this issue we look back to a time when resources were scarce and women made the most of what they had, for themselves and others. It’s worth remembering the brave and stalwart Land Girls in their corduroy breeches, tending the fields and those who embroidered maps for British airmen and maintained morale by stitching in the Anderson shelters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is a real fascination for this period in our history as demonstrated by the re-enactors, who recreate the clothing of the period in minute detail. We also touch on other companies who have stood the test of time such as Smedley, while in Bespoke Living, we offer a glimpse into the life of tailor Timothy Everest who produces garments that are future classics. Everest is the first of many gentlemen in this issue; Men of the Cloth, introduces Ian Batten, Guy Hills and other talented men with a real passion for cloth. We hope to see you in 2010...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"text-col-2\" class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48057291833579,"sku":"32","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31583080967,"sku":"32 Altitude Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV32-305MM.jpg?v=1527265199"},{"product_id":"issue-31-folk","title":"Issue 31 Folk","description":"\u003cp\u003eNovember\/December 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLAST CHRISTMAS – Clare, our Advertising Manager, inspired the office by making her gifts by hand. But even she was surprised by how well they were received – the only person excluded from her handmade bounty was her brother, and Clare reports he looked rather downcast when he unwrapped his shop-bought alternative (he’s having a cushion made from a vintage army blanket this year). We hope our festive guide to a handmade holiday, which includes a range of gifts suggested by our favourite designers will inspire you in a similar way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt was amid all this talk of the handmade that I remembered an old school rule – girls could only exchange homemade gifts at Christmas. It was meant to avoid the worst excesses of oneupmanship but we were still horribly competitive. Removing the pressure, especially self-imposed pressure, from present giving is not easy. Kate Cavendish suggests we loosen up, let go of our pride and try to enjoy the process of making, or just choosing, special things for our loved ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuying our presents is not an admission of failure, and if you chose or commission well, it supports craftspeople and artisans which is actually something to be proud of. Our gift guide, beautifully illustrated by Rachel Early, has plenty of ideas or if you are looking to invest in artwork this issue’s featured artists, Ann Carrington, Geraldine Larkin and Donya Coward, all work with sequins, giving their pieces a festive feel. A glimpse of glitter was all it took to bring out the magpie in us and we’ve also explored the history of the sequin, and touched on tinsel. Swarovski crystals, and all things sparkly might seem frivolous, but they are the perfect way to lift your spirits during this second ‘credit-crunch’ Christmas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to diffusing seasonal stress and its attendant financial worries is planning. J. Morgan Puett, designer turned founder of an artist’s colony in Pennsylvania, shops all year round and then spreads her actual gift giving between Christmas and the New Year. It’s a calmer, more sophisticated approach but with just a few weeks until Christmas it’s probably too late to adopt it this year. So let’s plough on as usual, make a few gifts, bake a few pies, plug the gaps with some shop-bought treats. Muddle through and make sure spending time with the people that matter, not the forgotten brandy butter, is at the top of that ever-growing list. Happy Holidays...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48057286754539,"sku":"31","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31583183239,"sku":"31 Folk Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV31-305MM.jpg?v=1550018927"},{"product_id":"issue-31-chromatic","title":"Issue 30 Chromatic","description":"\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTHE ENERGY AND EXCITEMENT of the graduate season may be ebbing away but I would like to wish all graduating students future success. It was another strong year with some lovely work on show. The students I met seemed thrilled to be on the brink of new opportunities and, hopefully, careers. There were hundreds of smiling faces but in some cases the smiles masked the intense pressure students are under – a textile education has never had a higher cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile most students cope by working extremely hard, others seek an easy way out. It was shocking to discover that a student selected as a Texprint star had plagiarised the work of several designers, most prominently the work of Chicago-based illustrator Lauren Nassef. Texprint is a charity with a wonderful history and an admirable aim – to link the best newly graduated textile designers with industry, launching those selected at prestigious international exhibitions. It is a great shame that they were taken advantage of in this way as the textile industry needs the support of such organisations now, more than ever.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTextiles students must deal with the abolition of grants, staff cuts and vastly increased student numbers. I feel privileged to have been able to study in a small group with three full-time tutors and numerous technical staff on hand. It wasn't a wasteful period when students spent more time in the bar than in the studio; it just takes that much time, hard work and money to develop creativity. The right educational environment can help a fledgling talent to flourish, a fact demonstrated by Gunta Stölzl, and the Bauhaus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI graduated from Glasgow School of Art with a class of incredibly talented people. Timorous Beasties, among them and in this issue they share their affection for Scotland and their fellow designers working there. There are many people dedicated to helping the current crop of textile talent; this year’s London Design Festival, for example, is bigger and brighter than ever but even as we celebrate I am alarmed to hear that the MA Textile Course in Norwich has closed with immediate effect. The ability to think creatively and to invent is a rare and precious gift. It should be cherished, nurtured and respected. The continued closure of textile courses, and the pressure on those that remain, makes me wonder if we can honestly say we are doing that...\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":48056505073899,"sku":"30","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31583337479,"sku":"30 Chromatic Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV30-305MM.jpg?v=1550018926"},{"product_id":"issue-29-francais","title":"Issue 29 Français","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_05f4995c-7aa1-4768-a559-5d5d239f72d1_large.png?v=1504980329\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_ff10fa21-c1cc-43c0-9c40-393c4888b0be_large.png?v=1504980343\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSMALL THINGS AND SIMPLE PLEASURES – the satisfaction of a job well done is a mainstay of the Amish way of life and it’s an attitude we can all embrace, particularly in these straightened\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003etimes. In our professional lives few of us are able to take credit for the creation of an entire object. Meeting targets, deadlines and objectives is all very well but it must be lovely to sit back at the end of your working day and admire something made with skill, ingenuity and the right materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn France, where we travel this issue, they have cultivated a true appreciation of artisan skills. Like the Japanese who designate their most gifted craftspeople as ‘Living National Treasures’, in France craftspeople compete to be known as ‘Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France’ or 'One of the best craftsmen of France'. In this issue we visit the mills of La Maison Georges Le Manach, where the master weaver has earned that accolade, and the atelier of Gerard Lognon, an upholder of the tradition of fine pleating in Paris.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen one thinks about the finest craftspeople in France the countries’ couturiers spring to mind. This month sees the release of Coco Avant Chanel a film about the life of Coco Chanel. Building a fashion house is a struggle, a creative vision is essential but, as Chanel discovered, beautiful dreams cost money. Coco had Arthur Edward 'Boy' Capel but these days designers shelter under the wings of huge multinationals. We explore the structure of Fashion in Root and branch. We also celebrate past highlights of French fashion with the work of Raoul Dufy, artists who have inspired generations of designers including Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, whose collection of works from the period go on show in London this month.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen I think about the wonderful French notion of ‘joie de vivre’, I immediately think of colour and its power to change the way we feel. Ptolemy Mann, has based her work around this philosophy creating uplifting artworks for public spaces. In a more personal way the hand-dyed silk used in Alison Taylor’s garments, and cheerful, affordable accessories made by Danish Company rice, do the same – brighten the environment around us. It’s a worthy goal, and, if you’re not going far this year, why not make your home your project? Perhaps you can stretch to a day trip to Paris to browse the brocante, whatever you do, have a lovely summer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":52706163411,"sku":"29","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110511644907,"sku":"29 Français Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV29-305MM.jpg?v=1527265196"},{"product_id":"issue-28-literary","title":"Issue 28 Literary","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_05f4995c-7aa1-4768-a559-5d5d239f72d1_large.png?v=1504980329\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_ff10fa21-c1cc-43c0-9c40-393c4888b0be_large.png?v=1504980343\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI HAVE WRITTEN BEFORE about the relationship between text and textiles but remain intrigued by the textile terms, that have made their way into our everyday language. I have been looking forward to putting this issue together for some time. Even so I was surprised to discover the depth of the affinity textile people have for words, letters and literature. Overwhelmed by material we have already formulated a plan for our “Literary issue, Volume II” in the future.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis first foray seems to revolve around “Ladies of Letters” past and present. We had the good fortune to catch up with author Tracy Chevalier during a break in her schedule. She recently completed her latest book and had time to explain how her detailed historical novels, in particular her tale of The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, take shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe painstaking task of reconstructing the modes and manners of the past is made possible by those who take the trouble to document their experiences in diaries and correspondence. The voice of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, is heard centuries later in her colourful descriptions of clothing in her Turkish Embassy Letters written during her tour of the East.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe don’t travel quite so far afield as Lady Montagu this issue, instead we cross to Ireland where we are guided by the eloquent and charming John Rocha, through the myriad of contemporary and historic Irish crafts. In this, the first of a series of journeys around the UK and Ireland, we are introduced to the work of Tim Ryan, Angela O’Kelly and Liz Nilsson who will be exhibiting at this year’s Collect for the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt this time of year our attention also turns to new graduates. We highlight nine students from the Royal College of Art, who are tipping the gender balance and changing the way the department has traditionally worked. We want to wish all new graduates success in the future and hope to welcome all our readers to our stand at the New Designers’ exhibition in Islington in July, July 9-11 or at the Li Edelkoort presentation, sponsored by Selvedge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEnjoy the spring bank holidays. Children and weather permitting, I plan to spread a blanket in the sun and open a good book – if you plan to be more adventurous you might be interested in our May Day suggestions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31625726663,"sku":"28","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110509908203,"sku":"28 Literary Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV28-305MM.jpg?v=1527265195"},{"product_id":"issue-27-frugal","title":"Issue 27 Frugal","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJanuary\/February 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_05f4995c-7aa1-4768-a559-5d5d239f72d1_large.png?v=1504980329\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_ff10fa21-c1cc-43c0-9c40-393c4888b0be_large.png?v=1504980343\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003eIT CAN FEEL AS IF little good can come out of the economic situation we face, and it's true that all the magazine editorials in the world won't provide much relief if you're facing its worst aspects. But for the moment the majority of us are observers at the edge of a crisis and the message we should take is an old one, “Be Prepared”. According to Baden Powell knowing what to do and how to do it applies to all areas of life and right down to the (darned) tips of your toes.If we are aiming for a more self-sufficient approach the past provides plenty of inspiration. Earlier periods of hardship offer lessons that have been ignored for decades. In the 1930s and 40sthreads, needles, cloth and yarn were precious commodities, and knowing how to transform the min to garments was a valuable skill – as was the ability to care for and make them last. These tasks were scorned but are due a revival, as our rundown of five simple skills demonstrate.The tradition of 'make do and mend' underpins this issue: in the exhibition ‘Waste not Want not’ at the Museum of Brands, and the work of thrift-craft designer Lilian Dring. Her work reminds us that frugal doesn't mean monastic denial. It's about choosing where to place the resources we have to bring about the greatest satisfaction and, hopefully,the greatest good. Tamar Mogendorff, proves that reusing scrap fabric can produce the most beautiful results, and our photo story In praise of mending,suggests we take pride in making things last. If we can learn to trust our own fingers again then 'made by hand' maybe come a label infinitely more chic than ‘made in Italy’. Frugal is a strategy, a long-term plan of action, and it’s tailored to individual circumstance.It’s about the three ‘R’s’; reduction, restraint and resourcefulness. Perhaps one more word to\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003eadd to the list would be reciprocity. Our choices can have a wider effect and what is good for you can be good for everyone. This issue we launch our Hang it out campaign, to encourage readers to rediscover and love their washing line.Turning off your tumble dryer will reduce your energy costs and your carbon emissions. Your clothes will smell better and last longer. Your individual contribution might be small, but if every Selvedge reader made a commitment for a whole summer, collectively, we could make a difference...\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31632388679,"sku":"27","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110949884139,"sku":"27 Frugal Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV27-305MM.jpg?v=1527265195"},{"product_id":"issue-26-gold","title":"Issue 26 Gold","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMarch\/April 2009\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_05f4995c-7aa1-4768-a559-5d5d239f72d1_large.png?v=1504980329\" alt=\"\"\u003e  \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_ff10fa21-c1cc-43c0-9c40-393c4888b0be_large.png?v=1504980343\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003eWHEN THE MAGI TRAVELLED TO CELEBRATE the birth of Jesus they brought tributes of gold, frankincense and myrrh. While the latter archaic gifts bewilder generation after generation of children who, costumed in old brocade curtains and paper crowns, solemnly proclaim: “We bring you gold, frankenstein and mirth,” the value of gold is timeless and rarely misunderstood.This issue we celebrate its use in precious textiles, from the rich silks and brocades woven at the Gainsborough Silk Weaving Mill in Suffolk,to their ceremonial use in the court of the teenage Tsar Peter I. Of course the spirit of Christmas does not lie in riches and the giving of gifts. The most precious things we have are those that money can't buy. Mine is the privilege to spend my days doing something I truly love. I have been honoured over the last five years to be able to pursue a passion for textiles and to work with an inspiring team. Their energy and commitment make me proud. As the magazine approaches its fifth birthday, I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those involved in the formation of what I truly believe to be a much loved publication. I would like to thank our loyal readers, many of whom have been with us since our very first issue and invite you all to join me in celebrating the magazine's birthday at a festive afternoon at Burgh House in Hampstead. We are delighted to reach this landmark issue but we are not resting on our laurels, in fact we are in the midst of a building programme, which will provide much-needed larger office space in the New Year. We are also re-launching our object range. When the Selvedge object range began,the idea was a simple one, to support makers while helping readers to source the beautiful textiles\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003efeatured in the magazine. Two years later, overwhelming demand has transformed this simple service into a range of over 500 items. It has become evident that our ad hoc working title for the catalogue ‘Selvedge Objects’ is no longer adequate. These are not just any objects, ‘Selvedge Dry Goods’, are textile related products, and the finest examples of their kind.We will be taking a much-needed break over the Christmas period and your next issue will be with you at the beginning of February with some new features and our annual writing and illustration competitions. In the meantime have a warm and wonderful holiday season...\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31633739079,"sku":"26","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110508138731,"sku":"26 Gold Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV26-305MM.jpg?v=1527265194"},{"product_id":"issue-25-harvest","title":"Issue 25 Harvest","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_05f4995c-7aa1-4768-a559-5d5d239f72d1_large.png?v=1504980329\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_ff10fa21-c1cc-43c0-9c40-393c4888b0be_large.png?v=1504980343\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeptember\/October 2008\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI'D SEEN A PREVIEW OF CHOREOGRAPHER Zhang Jigang’s work at Ma Ke's couture show in Paris in June, pg 7, so was expecting something wonderful from Beijing’s opening ceremony and I was not disappointed. Apart from the performance it was fascinating to watch the parade of nations. Athletes from over 200 countries entered the Bird’s Nest stadium wearing their country’s “Sunday Best”. This year the US had Ralph Lauren design a dapper, sporty look inspired by the Oscar winning movie Chariots of Fire. The size and placement of the polo player logo caused some controversy, but overall the reaction was positive and the outfits much commented upon. Team GB’s parade wear on the other hand was utterly disappointing. Together with Olympic medalist Sarah Winckless, Lee Cooper and British “jeans guru” Tim Browne designed the uniform. It was instantly forgettable. Yes, the colours echoed the British flag; but there was nothing more to say. Margaret Howell would have been a more inspired choice of designer. The uniforms she recently created for the staff of the V\u0026amp;A used traditional British fabrics and made a strong statement. Some hold that comfort should be the primary objective of clothing and the Australian Olympic team seemed wholeheartedly in favour of this. Dispensing with their traditional merino jackets in gold and green they paraded in informal nylon tracksuits, influenced by the graduated dying seen in the Prada A\/W 2007 collection. It was a shame to lose the reference to the wool industry which is an intrinsic part of Australian history, pg 65 but the team, particularly the younger members, voted for a modern forward-looking uniform. It begs the question, when was Britain seduced by the evil sartorial chimera that is “smart casual”? This pointless hybrid of opposing characteristics fulfills neither objective adequately. I blame the adoption of sweatshirts-as-uniform on Jeff Banks who in 1990 replaced the Brownies’ cotton dresses with yellow track suits. The phenomenon has now spread to almost all our seats of learning, pg 34. I’m not making a case for starched shirts and scratchy blazers; but structured uniforms that make use of good quality, long-lasting fabrics give the nation's adolescents something to push against. If you have spent your childhood in a school-approved hoodie what do you wear to rebel? This autumn choose smart or choose casual – you can’t have both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":42110506500331,"sku":"25","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":31634071367,"sku":"25 Harvest Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV25-305MM.jpg?v=1527265193"},{"product_id":"issue-24-indian-summer","title":"Issue 24 Indian Summer - currently only available in digital format","description":"\u003cp\u003ePlease note this issue is currently only available in digital format\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJuly\/August 2008\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003eMY HUSBAND IS PASSIONATE ABOUT HERBACEOUS BORDERS and I have spent many summer afternoons admiring them, NGS‘yellow book’ in hand. He loves Vita Sackville-West’s whitegarden at Sissinghurst Castle and the long border at Great Dixter. I, however, am no gardener and digging around in soil rather takes the glamour out of the experience for me. I prefer my flowers carefully arranged in a vase or distilled into a bottle of Chanel no 5. If you prefer roses that don’t wilt then enter the world of Bruno Legeron. This family company have supplied silk flowers to the greatest couturiers since 1880. Annabel Lewis, founder of renowned ribbon emporium VV Rouleaux, understands their appeal and this issue we have arranged a special event that includes a tour of Annabel’s trade vaults and a trimming masterclass.Flowers have the ability to inspire great passion as can be seen in the Marianne North Gallery,at The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. Marianne was a Victorian painter who traveled the world recording the flora native to the countries she visited. Her extensive portfolio of over 800 paintings inspired Graham Hollick, to unearth this season’s finest embroidered fabrics. The block prints of Joy and Toy Singh, and of Brigitte Singh, also show the benefits of detailed observation. Both translate their floral favourites into the worlds most beautiful block prints. And in the bougainvillea scented rose pink city of Jaipur we find the Anokhi Museum, and a community keeping ancient textile traditions alive. The Jaipur foundation are committed to safeguarding the traditions of this city, but artistic communities exist around the world, Catherine Calvert’s round up of international artists’ colonies is delightfully illustrated by Clare Nicholas.\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003eThe relationship between fragrance and fashion is a close one with profits from perfume sales often funding couture collections. The relationship between the economy and fashion is even closer according to George Taylor’s ‘hemline index’ which asserts that when stock prices fall hem lines will follow. It’s an amusing idea but the role fashion plays in the national economy is often overlooked – far from frivolous the fashion industry generates around £14 billion each year. We will have to wait until September’s London Fashion Week, to find out if we will spend summer 2009 swathed in metres of fabric; so enjoy this summer and spend it in shorts – just in case...\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110504861931,"sku":"24 Indian Summer Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV24-305MM.jpg?v=1550018922"},{"product_id":"issue-23-urban","title":"Issue 23 Urban","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMay\/June 2008\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/read-sample-article-button_3bdc90c6-dbda-454a-a641-5504bd84bb68_large.png?v=1504719250\" alt=\"\"\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/subscriptions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/files\/subscribe-button_1_large.png?v=1504719239\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-1\"\u003eINTRODUCING READERS TO THE NEW AND INNOVATIVE is an important part of a magazine’s role. For a textile publication this isn’t difficult, after all nothing changes faster than fashion and textiles have been at the forefront of innovation since James Hargreaves invented the Spinning Jenny in 1768. The wealth generated by this and subsequent industrial innovations has shaped the developed world and beyond. Blue jeans, are one of the most potent symbols of the global nature of the textile industry. In their many guises, from work wear to designer status symbol, they demonstrate the importance of textiles in National economies and individual lives. Parallels between the working conditions endured by those employed in the Lancashire cotton mills in the 1800s and those in China’s denim factories today, show that, despite the fast pace of the fashion world, the textile industry as a whole has dragged its heels in the race to become sustainable or transparent in its production methods. The first report from the London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion points out, “the trail has been blazed by the automotive and food industries with research and development”. Individual designers are doing their best to catch up, Natalie Chanin, is inspired by her local textile heritage. She lives in Florence, Alabama which was the ‘t-shirt capital of world’ in the 1980s. Production may have moved to China but Chanin reinterprets this history in her recycled garments and encourages others to do the same with her simple project ideas. Striking the right balance between commercially viable and environmentally sound is difficult. As Carin Mansfield, pg 66 will testify, to source organic cotton one has to search the globe and to have it woven to a high standard one may have to go to Japan. If your garment is then constructed\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\" id=\"text-col-2\"\u003ein the UK and shipped back to Japan for sale you’ve clocked up an awful lot of air miles. We are aware that there are paradoxes in ‘ethical or sustainable textile production’ that need to be ironed out and we don’t claim to be an accreditation body, but we do want to mark the achievements made by textiles companies. In this issue you will see our new ‘sustain’ news section and a stamp that will appear wherever a product uses recycled material, organic cloth or ethical production practices. We’re even going to try and earn one ourselves...\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"col-sm-6\"\u003ePolly Leonard, Founder\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cspan style=\"border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px\/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c  no-repeat scroll 3px 50% \/ 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;\"\u003eTallenna\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"Selvedge Magazine","offers":[{"title":"Print","offer_id":31636014791,"sku":"23","price":18.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"Digital","offer_id":42110504337643,"sku":"23 Urban Digital","price":12.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1395\/5787\/products\/Large-SV23-480.jpg?v=1527265192"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.selvedge.org\/collections\/bank-holiday-sale.oembed?page=6","provider":"Selvedge Magazine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}