Labels of Empire: Textile Trademarks: Windows into India in the Time of the Raj
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Susan Meller’s remarkable work delves deep into the history of the Raj, uncovering a treasure trove of insights through the lens of cloth labels. Her extensive research and unmatched collection of labels present a breathtaking journey through time. The book masterfully weaves together historical events and cultural influences, all within the confines of these small yet impactful artifacts.
In the late 19th century, as the British textile industry flourished, the book sheds light on an ingenious strategy employed by British manufacturers. By adorning bolts of cotton fabric with vibrant paper labels featuring Hindu deities and epics, they not only differentiated their products but also appealed to the Indian market. This tactic allowed them to outcompete local Indian weavers with superior designs, lower prices, and faster production cycles. As a consequence, Indian handlooms suffered a blow, pushing the nation towards the Swaraj and Swadeshi movement that led untimately to Independance.
Through lively descriptions, the book paints a vivid picture of the labels’ imagery, featuring scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana alongside trademark company logos. The labels became more than just functional markers; they became historical artifacts, collected for their cultural significance. The Lancashire mills’ dominance forced Indian mills into a struggle, resulting in a pivotal moment when half of Lancashire’s mills shut down due to a lack of raw materials, as a result of the American Civil War and the blocade of the southern ports.
The narrative seamlessly transitions to the turn of the century, as India sought independence through the Swadeshi movement led by Mahatma Gandhi. The boycott of British goods, including Lancashire cloth, ignited a fire for self-sufficiency. The book beautifully encapsulates the transition from British imports to Indian khadi cloth becoming a symbol of patriotism and freedom, as cottage industries embraced home-spun, hand-woven fabric.
In Labels of Empire, Meller skillfully pieces together the threads of history using the unassuming medium of cloth labels. The result is a captivating tale of economic competition, cultural influence, and the power of a nation’s determination. This outstanding work offers readers a fresh perspective on the Raj era, making it a must-read for history enthusiasts and anyone fascinated by the intersection of culture and commerce.
••• Geeta Khandelwal