Kalamkari or Qalamkari is a time-honoured and widely admired traditional Indian textile art form synonymous with the culture and tradition of Andhra Pradesh.
Derived from the Persian words "qalam" (pen) and "kari" (craftsmanship), the centuries-old art refers to the ancient style of hand painting intricate motifs on cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind pen, using natural dyes. During ancient times, folk singers and painters used to meander from one village to another narrating epics such as the Mahabharata, Ramayana and Bhagavatam to the village inhabitants.
The artist’s tool moves along the fabric, creating the detailed linework that defines Kalamkari. Photo by Navaldeep Thareja
A steady hand applies colour within the intricate outlines of a Kalamkari illustration. Photo by Navaldeep Thareja
Over the centuries, this storytelling practice evolved. Instead of purely narrative performances, artists began creating detailed, standalone textile artworks and that’s when Kalamkari art was born. During the Mughal rule (1527 AD to 1857 AD), this style of painting gained massive recognition and was promoted in the Golconda and Coromandel provinces where skilful artisans (known as Qalamkars) used to cultivate and practise this art. And, that’s how Kalamkari evolved into the intricate, storytelling-rich textile art form we recognise it as today.
Artisans gather together, painting and sharing the process behind a traditional Kalamkari artwork. Photo by Navaldeep Thareja
The beauty of Kalamkari belies the complexity of its creation. The process entails 23 painstaking steps, including bleaching, softening and sun-drying the fabric, preparing and blending natural dyes, and meticulously hand-painting and rinsing the cloth between each successive layer of colour. Earthy tones like indigo, mustard, red, black and green are used to draw beautiful motifs of Indian Gods and goddesses, as well as nature-inspired patterns and scenes from Indian mythology.
A Kalamkari textile is carefully washed in water, revealing the colours and details of the hand-painted design. Photo by Navaldeep Thareja
With the emergence of high-on-technology machine looms and contemporary print designs, the generational art form has lost its shine over the last decades. The Indian fashion industry came together to revive the traditional age-old print by promoting both the art and artisans. Present day, Kalamkari is not only restricted to sarees and paintings but also used in home furnishings, wall decors and various fashion attires.
Written by Sanjukta Ghosh
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Further Information:
Read more about Kalamkari in Selvedge Issue 117 Irresistible
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Image Credits:
Lead: Natural pigments and fine brushes bring mythological figures and motifs to life on Kalamkari fabric.
All photos: Navaldeep Thareja (@behrupiaa)