Skip to content

WELCOME TO OUR STORE

SUPPORT OUR WORK

  • HOME
  • MAGAZINE
    • CURRENT ISSUE
    • ALL ISSUES
    • FIND SELVEDGE
    • ORDER FAQS
  • SUBSCRIBE
    • FOR YOURSELF
    • FOR SOMEONE ELSE
    • FOR STUDENTS
    • FOR AN INSTITUTION
    • SUBSCRIBER FAQS
    • SUBSCRIBER ACCESS
  • STORIES
  • SHOP
    • SELVEDGE GOODS
    • SELVEDGE TOTES
    • ARTISAN GOODS
      • ALL
      • CLOTHING
      • INTERIORS
      • ACCESSORIES
      • TOYS
      • YARDAGE
      • EXPLORE ARTISANS
      • ACCESS TALKS
    • MAGAZINES
    • BOOKS
    • ORDER FAQs
  • LEARN
    • BOOK A WORKSHOP
    • LISTEN TO A TALK
    • MEET THE MAKER
    • SLOW TV
    • TRAVEL WITH US
  • EVENTS
    • MAKERS FAIR, BATH
    • WINTER FAIR
    • TEXTILE MONTH
    • SELVEDGE TOURS
    • EVENT FAQS
  • COMMUNITY
    • JOIN OUR COMMUNITY
    • LISTEN TO A PODCAST
    • SELVEDGE OPEN STUDIO
    • VISIT A TEXTILE COLLECTION
    • SEE AN EXHIBITION
    • ENTER A PRIZE DRAW
    • MAKE A PROJECT
  • COLLABORATE
    • ADVERTISE WITH US
    • WORK WITH US
    • WRITE FOR US
    • WRITE FOR THE BLOG
    • BECOME A STOCKIST
  • OUR STORY
    • READ OUR STORY
    • GET TO KNOW US
    • READ ABOUT US
  • CONTACT US
Log in
  • Facebook
  • Pinterest
  • Instagram
  • YouTube
  • Vimeo
Selvedge Magazine
  • HOME
  • MAGAZINE
    • CURRENT ISSUE
    • ALL ISSUES
    • FIND SELVEDGE
    • ORDER FAQS
  • SUBSCRIBE
    • FOR YOURSELF
    • FOR SOMEONE ELSE
    • FOR STUDENTS
    • FOR AN INSTITUTION
    • SUBSCRIBER FAQS
    • SUBSCRIBER ACCESS
  • STORIES
  • SHOP
    • SELVEDGE GOODS
    • SELVEDGE TOTES
    • ARTISAN GOODS
      • ALL
      • CLOTHING
      • INTERIORS
      • ACCESSORIES
      • TOYS
      • YARDAGE
      • EXPLORE ARTISANS
      • ACCESS TALKS
    • MAGAZINES
    • BOOKS
    • ORDER FAQs
  • LEARN
    • BOOK A WORKSHOP
    • LISTEN TO A TALK
    • MEET THE MAKER
    • SLOW TV
    • TRAVEL WITH US
  • EVENTS
    • MAKERS FAIR, BATH
    • WINTER FAIR
    • TEXTILE MONTH
    • SELVEDGE TOURS
    • EVENT FAQS
  • COMMUNITY
    • JOIN OUR COMMUNITY
    • LISTEN TO A PODCAST
    • SELVEDGE OPEN STUDIO
    • VISIT A TEXTILE COLLECTION
    • SEE AN EXHIBITION
    • ENTER A PRIZE DRAW
    • MAKE A PROJECT
  • COLLABORATE
    • ADVERTISE WITH US
    • WORK WITH US
    • WRITE FOR US
    • WRITE FOR THE BLOG
    • BECOME A STOCKIST
  • OUR STORY
    • READ OUR STORY
    • GET TO KNOW US
    • READ ABOUT US
  • CONTACT US
Log in Cart

Item added to your cart

Access Denied
IMPORTANT! If you’re a store owner, please make sure you have Customer accounts enabled in your Store Admin, as you have customer based locks set up with EasyLockdown app. Enable Customer Accounts

50% off for those curious about toile...

May 22, 2015
Share
In our current issue Esclarmonde Monteil, curator at the Musée de la Toile de Jouy, shook the foundations of our textiles knowledge when she told us the term "Toile de Jouy" does not just apply to the beautiful pastoral monochrome designs that we all know and love. Christopher-Philippe Oberkampf, the German-born son of a dye-maker, founded the printed cotton manufactory in the small town of Jouy-en-Josas near Versailles from which these textiles would take their name. But, Monteil explains, Fame has given us a distorted idea of Oberkampf’s production – a few hundred narrative patterns completely overshadow thousands of others. The floral patterns are known to connoisseurs but the geometric and stylised ones are seldom associated with Jouy. toile2   These patterns are quite astonishing. We know them through two sources: the commercial letters of the manufactory and the “Memorial” – a book written in the middle of the 19th century. The first “indiennes” printed in Jouy were “mignonettes” – small patterns printed on mixed textiles of cotton and linen, woven in the Beaujolais region. The manufactory could not produce enough of these cheap prints. According to G. Widmer they were then, and always, the main source of revenue. Another simple pattern was invented around 1778; “la natte”, an imitation of woven straw matting. It was designed to make slipcovers for furniture but was soon adopted as hangings and wall coverings. It was easy to produce since it used only two blocks and two colours and was copied as late as 1854. At the beginning of the 19th century, Jouy adopted yet another technical innovation, the copper roller. Samuel Widmer, also a nephew, invented a way to mechanically engrave the copper roller, reducing engraving time from six months to six days. They could then produce a type of mignonette with delicate tiny patterns impossible to create by hand. This new process was so perfect that Jouy created a new genre of patterns, the “miniature”. toile3 So many patterns were created in Jouy that it is almost impossible to know all of them. Scholars are trying to build an overview but no global catalogue remains to provide a clear overview. Instead dots, losanges, stripes and flowers are known only through clippings pasted to letters from Oberkampf’s dealers. And from these pretty scraps a patchwork of knowledge is being stitched together. toile4 There's even more to learn about the history of this surprisingly varied fabric – V&A Curator Sarah Grant outlines its creation and Sarah Jane Downing visits the Toile Museum. Why not subscribe and receive this issue as your first? Today we're offering 50% off a 6 month continuous subscription £24.75 £12.37 in the UK (overseas prices vary) with the code ‘curious toile’.  
Back to blog

4 comments

I have spent time at the Musee de la Toile Jouy so was delighted to read this article and revisit the story of such beautiful textiles. For anyone obsessed with textiles and textile history this is certainly a ‘must see’!

AnneMay 8, 2017

Love Timorous Beasties contemporary take on toile jouy

Nicky McKeanMay 8, 2017

J’aime bcp cette forme et le choix du tissu est bien assortie (meame si je ne suis pas fan de la toile de juy lol!)En rancvehe est ce qu’un petit troc te dirait? ce que tu veux contre le patron de la jupe en taille 44, crois tu que cela puisse eatre possible?En tout cas ce serait super sympa car j’adoooore le mode8le.Gros bisous.

AyongMay 8, 2017

I thank you for your refreshing blog. It has kept me going thrguoh what seems a very long and bleak winter.Hurrah for Spring. You make life in Provence seem so magical at any time of the year,how do you do it!

BrendaMay 8, 2017

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

Invalid password
Enter

Quick links

  • SEARCH
  • ABOUT US
  • T&Cs
  • FAQs
  • PRIVACY POLICY

Subscribe to our newsletter by entering your email address below. "I just wanted to say how much I admire your informative and inspirational newsletters - I always look forward to them!" Tricia, San Rafael, USA

  • Facebook
  • Pinterest
  • Instagram
  • YouTube
  • Vimeo
Payment methods
  • American Express
  • Apple Pay
  • Diners Club
  • Discover
  • Google Pay
  • Maestro
  • Mastercard
  • Shop Pay
  • Union Pay
  • Visa
© 2025, Selvedge Magazine Powered by Shopify
  • Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.