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BLACK GOLD

BLACK GOLD

April 7, 2023
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Image courtesy of Leslie Osterling

Written by Leslie Osterling

15 years ago I experienced loss of hair very closely. My husband had been diagnosed with AML (Acute Myeloid Leukemia) and I was with him at the MD Anderson Center in Houston hoping for a miracle. My 3 small children stayed behind in Lima under the care of my parents. Yet 10 relentless months later, 10 months that tore my heart into pieces, 10 months of chemicals, blood, bile and bitterness, I gave my children back his father. Bold. Grey. But alive. 

When I learnt that Kiara, who I had known as a child, was now making wigs as an adult in the Sacred Valley in Cuzco, I was intrigued. My memory of wigs were those on sale at the hospital - the paper-thin and green-greyish appearance of the patients - sometimes using fairly unconvincing hair arrangements. What was the reason for a young girl to become a wigmaker?

I had to contact her and find out. In spite of all the years, she remembered me and was dear and outgoing toward me. She told me proudly about her project, describing her reasons and her goals without any hesitation. I had to go and see for myself. I had to document their story.

Kiara suffered Alopecia when she was a teenager. She closed herself up. She suffered. She did not lose her hair completely, but was only left with 30 or 40 percent. It was only when she came across natural hair wigs that she felt satisfied with the alternative to her own hair that she had lost. The largest number of wigs that flood the world's wig market come from China, South Korea, Myanmar, India and Vietnam. However, Kiara discovered a wigmaker in the United States, Gretchen, who made the most strikingly beautiful natural hair wigs. She signed up to her workshop and decided to learn to make them herself. She did not stop until she had mastered the art of wig-making.

The same way that hats are made, or the prêt-a-porter garments are made according to standard sizes, wigs can also be produced with standard measures. Nevertheless Kiara has learnt - and is keen - to make her production become known as exclusively made to order and conforming to the needs and taste of each client, like haute couture.


Image courtesy of Leslie Osterling

Artificial materials cannot compete with natural ones. The beauty of real hair is difficult to match. But Kiara uncovered a market of natural hair and wigs manufactured with it. It's an underworld that is not well known, or in any event, is not much spoken of as the buyer, the consumer of these products, generally likes to keep the use of his or her wig undisclosed.

Kiara wants to create awareness of the value of natural hair and even more of natural hair wigs. She envisions the natural hair wigs made by the Andean Women to become luxury items that in turn will be the new great source of income for them. The positive impact in their lives would be astonishing. Each of Kiara’s apprentices, once an expert in this craft, could train more and more weavers to become wig-makers and thus make this business grow organically. Peru could find a highly ranked position in the wig-making map of the world!

The global hair wigs and extensions market was valued at USD 6.13 billion in 2021 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 7.63% during the forecast period. The market size value in 2022 was 6.56 Billion US Dollars. The revenue forecast in 2030 is USD 11.8 Billion. Finally, the global hair wig market is anticipated to cross the valuation of USD 14.29 Billion by 2032!


Image courtesy of Leslie Osterling

It is not by chance that almost a year ago now, Kiara chose to set up her atelier in the banks of the Vilcanota River, in the Ollantaytambo district. A few years ago, before Covid times, she helped to set up an NGO called AWAMAKI that grouped women who knitted Alpaca goods. They would card and comb the wool by hand and make all sorts of garments or clothing accessories. Unfortunately the very long lasting Covid lockdown periods closed this association down.

With this new enterprise, Kiara has awakened new hope to Huayronccoocpampa. She has brought together part of the knitting team from the Awamaki NGO and is now by their side, relentlessly working to teach them all the tricks of the trade!


Image courtesy of Leslie Osterling

I have had the chance to meet Maritza, Isabel, Claudia, Luz Marina and Flor de María, Juanabel and Francisca. They invited me to their homes, introduced me to their children and told me bits and pieces of their lives. All of them are determined to lay the groundwork for a better future for their families. They live in a small community in an idyllic location where the flow of the river gives them peace and the imposing apus or spirits of the majestic surrounding mountains protect them.


Image courtesy of Leslie Osterling

Kiara has rented a small Airbnb by the river bank. She has two dogs and a cat who are her companions and guardians. The view from her windows is directly over the rushing water and the surrounding trees. Further away it is possible to discern the imposing fortress of Ollantaytambo. With high speed internet everything is possible - even from this very remote place of the world! I have no doubt that with the vibrant energy that inspires them, they will soon offer Peruvian Hair to the world as the beautiful Black Gold that it is.
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