FIVE MINUTES WITH A FRIEND: PAIWAND

This week, as part of our Five Minutes with a Friend series where we interview textile makers, designers, enthusiast, historians and writers, we speak to Ashita Singhal of Paiwand Studio. "Paiwand Lagana” is a local common phrase used in India which means to patch or repair. It is inspired by the same ideology and is an ode to the bygone culture.

Launched in November 2018 as a unique upcycling textile studio by Ashita Singhal, Paiwand sees beauty in bits and fragments, unwanted things in life, and believes in adding value by repurposing those forgotten pieces.



They upcycle textile waste and turn it into fabrics for apparel and home furnishing, collaborating with design houses and artisans to repurpose textile waste into meaningful textiles using various handcrafted techniques like handloom weaving, patchwork, knitting, embroidery, and felting.

Ashita Singhal is a weaver, designer, and social entrepreneur. She believes in working with limited resources and local materials. Via her design studio Paiwand, she challenges the conventional norms of textile design while focusing on the importance of craft and the need for sustainability.

Ashita Singhal of Paiwand Studio will be speaking at our upcoming Wardrobe Revolution Weekend where we are bringing together twenty speakers will present their response to the Crisis in our Wardrobes. Get 50% discount with the code: REVOLUTION23. Don't miss out and be part of the conversation:
www.selvedge.org/products/wardrobe-revolution-weekend

Grab a cup of tea and let's talk textiles......



What is your first memory of a textile?
My earliest textile memory revolves around my grandfather's pristine white dhoti. Throughout my childhood, textiles have played a significant role in my surroundings. Strangely, it was not the vibrant and artisanal saris of my mother and grandmother that fascinated me the most, but rather my grandfather's kora cotton dhotis adorned with colourful selvedges, each changing to suit the occasion.
Can you put into words what you love about textiles?

Textiles serve as a kind of second skin for the human body, enveloping us in various forms, from clothing to upholstery, even the seats in our cars. They're an integral part of our everyday life, providing comfort and functionality. What truly captivates me about textiles is their ability to adapt and transform, depending on their intended use. Traditional textiles from different corners of the globe have evolved over time, often out of sheer necessity for survival. I find it inspiring how textiles offer a vast canvas for creativity and innovation, allowing us to explore and push the boundaries of design.



If you make textiles, where is your most inspiring space/place to create?
Within my design studio, a world of creativity unfolds. It's a special place where designers and artisans come together as true collaborators. Here, the free flow of ideas, the sharing of techniques, and the sound of laughter serve as the driving forces that inspire our entire team to stretch the boundaries of imagination. In our studio, we've implemented a policy that every idea, without exception, must be explored by creating a sample. This practice has opened the door to unexpected discoveries and encourages innovation on a daily basis. The team's collective ethos of continuous learning and the belief that we're all a work in progress create an environment in our studio that is both tranquil and motivating.



What has inspired you recently? 
Eileen Fisher's work has indeed been a significant source of inspiration for many, including myself. Her holistic approach to design thinking, encompassing 360 degrees of innovation, is truly motivating. The brand's commitment to size- inclusivity and circular design sets a pioneering example in the realm of sustainability.

One of the standout initiatives is the "Waste No More" project, which I particularly admire. By utilising a felt loom, they upcycle discarded clothing, showcasing a creative and environmentally responsible way to give new life to old textiles. This project not only reduces waste but also highlights the potential for innovative solutions within the fashion industry. It's a testament to Eileen Fisher's commitment to sustainability and her brand's dedication to making a positive impact on the world of fashion.



What is your most cherished textile, and why?
My dearest textiles are those that once belonged to my late grandfather, particularly his simple yet cherished dhoti. This handwoven cotton dhoti with a 100s count reminds me of the precious moments I spent with him. It's incredible how the love and warmth he exuded seem to have been passed on to this piece of fabric.

Inspired by the vibrant selvedges of his dhoti, in 2020, after the pandemic, we embarked on a creative journey. We gathered leftover textile waste, joined them to create bobbins, and used these bobbins in both the warp and weft to craft an intricate pattern of imperfect checks on a kora cotton base. It's a testament to the emotional and creative power that textiles hold in our lives.



Where did you learn your craft?
I hold a commerce degree, but my passion for textiles, particularly the art of handloom weaving, has been a constant fascination during my design school days. My formal fashion design education didn't include technical weaving aspects, but I was determined to delve into the world of textiles. I initiated direct collaborations with skilled weavers, taking my sketches and transforming them into tangible textile pieces under their expert guidance.

When I established Paiwand, I had the privilege of learning from a master weaver, Kishan Swaroop. He not only taught me how to operate a sample loom and create a warp but also became my mentor in translating my design visions into fabric. Through this direct interaction with master weavers, I gained insights into the strengths and limitations of weaving techniques. This experience has allowed me to view the loom as a canvas. I enjoy working with my local material, textile waste in this context and reimaging traditional textiles into contemporary pieces.

Text and images courtesy of Paiwand Studio. 

Ashita Singhal of Paiwand Studio will be speaking at our upcoming Wardrobe Revolution Weekend where we are bringing together twenty speakers will present their response to the Crisis in our Wardrobes. Get 50% discount with the code: REVOLUTION23. Don't miss out and be part of the conversation:
www.selvedge.org/products/wardrobe-revolution-weekend

Find out more:
www.paiwandstudio.com
@paiwandstudio