Tulle, texture and Intrigue at London Fashion Weekby 159
Since Alessandro Michele's AW collection for Gucci last year there has been a definite, fresh change in the fashion air. Gone are the minimalist, pared-back looks of old, it seems that eccentric, colourful embellishment is here to stay. At this year's London Fashion Week Preen took spectators to an urban re-imagining of a Pagan-cum-witchcraft festival. Jean Ker, Countess of Roxburghe – a lady in waiting to Charles I's wife, Henrietta Maria of France – was on her way to the Netherlands in 1642 to secretly sell some of the Crown Jewels to help fund the English Civil War, when her ship sank into the North Sea... Adventure and inspiration enough perhaps but the inspiration for Erdem's LFW show was in fact the Countess' sunk and only recently discovered wardrobe. Erdem's imagined (300 strong) army of the Countess was characteristically romantic and strong. Hats by Noel Stuart Millinery gave the collection an eerily decadent feel. Roberta Einer may be relatively new to the high fashion schedule but her LFW collection proved to be no exception to the rule. Each model looked to be her own individual - although possibly all of them were from the same scene: 1970s Miami.
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