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TURBAN: A TRADITIONAL HEAD ATTIRE OF MANY FACETS

TURBAN: A TRADITIONAL HEAD ATTIRE OF MANY FACETS

September 9, 2022
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Images Courtesy of Balveer Kumawat

Written by Brinda Gill


“It takes a minute”, says Balveer Kumawat, a professional turban-tier based in Jaipur, Rajasthan state, India, of the time he takes to deftly wrap a nine metres long fabric around the head of a seated man into a neat turban. In the course of an hour he wraps turbans, in different styles, for about fifty men, transforming their look as they attend a celebration dressed in traditional Indian garments or Western suits.

The turban, a length of cloth tied around the head, has traditionally been worn by men in different parts of India. Frescoes, sculpture and paintings going back several centuries depict men wearing turbans of different styles. 


Images Courtesy of Balveer Kumawat

Evolving through the centuries in response to physical, cultural and historical factors, the turban became symbolic of chivalry, honour, respect, brotherhood and tradition. Followers of Sikh religion wear the turban as an article of their faith and identity; Nihang Sikhs wear elongated/large turbans with steel quoits. 

A variety of turban/turban styles are seen in different parts of India, and sometimes even within the same state. The variations are from their fabric itself as well as from the style of folding the cloth and wrapping it around the head.

Turbans are also known by different names locally such as
paag, pagdi, safa and pheta. Interestingly, if a man is wearing a turban of a textile, colour/colour-combination and tying style specific to a particular place/region/community, his identity can be gleaned simply by a glimpse of his turban.  

Turban fabrics are of different widths as well as lengths (varying from a few metres to up to sixteen metres); of different colours; of one and multi-colours; plain and patterned; of different fabrics (from fine muslin to rich brocades). Colours may be specific to an occasion such as yellow turbans for festivals celebrating the arrival of spring. Motifs/patterns may be resist-dyed, woven or hand block-printed.


A man wearing a traditional Marwari turban. 
Images Courtesy of Balveer Kumawat

The resplendence of turbans is seen in old photographs of the erstwhile princely states, and the sheer variety of turban styles in old photographs and old picture postcards. Some museums have displays of traditional turbans. Among them is the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum in Baroda, Gujarat.

The practice of wearing turbans is popular at weddings, official and social occasions. Grooms select turbans to complement their attire for a well-coordinated ensemble, and wear exquisite turban ornaments studded with gems and edged by gemstones/drop pearls. There are stores that specialise in selling turban cloths and can provide pre-wrapped turbans complete with turban ornament if required. 

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