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Issue 07 Uniform
Selvedge Magazine
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September/October 2005
The politics, pomp and ceremony of dress
"WHEN I SHOWED MY HUSBAND the hard won treasures from my latest shopping trip, he enquired “just how many pairs of black linen trousers does a person need?” My wardrobe consists to a great extent of a self-imposed uniform, with a limited range of colours, fabrics and shapes. The ideas and theories that surround uniform are vast: in this issue Nicola Donovan explores their sex appeal, while Jessica Hemmings examines artists preoccupied with their meaning. Uniforms can be a source of pride but also an emblem of shame, an idea exemplified by 19th century orphan uniforms.
"The autumn is a busy time for everyone and to help you organise your diary we have a new essential section filled with not-to-be-missed shows, exhibitions and must-have new products from 100% Design, Chelsea Craft Fair and Signpost to a New Space, to the ETN Conference in Turkey. We linger in Istanbul and discover traditional and contemporary textiles in this ancient land. Nowhere are these two things brought together more beautifully than in the work of Gönül Paksoy. We also look to the future with the long awaited publication of Sarah E. Braddock Clarke's and Marie O'Mahony's Techno Textiles 2 and eavesdrop on a conversation between Catherine Harper, Lesley Millar and Reiko Sudo as they discuss 21/21 at the Surrey Institute.
Louis Vuitton elegantly demonstrates the re-emergence of tailoring to the catwalk. The emphasis on cut and cloth this season means the quality of our clothes will be more visible than ever but will this slow demand for the £1.74 T shirt I saw advertised with pride by a major chain store? I can’t help but wonder – if the retailer, wholesaler, factory owner and farmer take their cut, how much is left for the weaver who weaves the cloth? Someone, somewhere must be missing out. This is a thought I want to leave you with: as Fashion Week approaches and the best of British lay out their stalls and have a price tag of thousands, just how much should we pay for our clothes?
Enjoy the – hopefully– mellow days of autumn. Perhaps I’ll see you at the shows."
Polly Leonard, Founder, Selvedge Magazine
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7 reviews
A
Alison A truly enjoyable read
This magazine is a joy to read on every level. It is well researched, interesting and beautifully written. It cleverly connects the distant past with cutting edge current practice and has inspired me to learn more about both. Now I want to read more!
B
Barbara S. Visually very satisfying and intellectually stimulating
I always find Selvedge Magazine visually very satisfying and intellectually stimulating. I have all the issues in my library and will have to find a good institution to donate then to when the time comes. I remember getting issue 00 at some conference or meeting in the US when you were first starting out. Bravo again for so many years of sharing the joy of textiles in all its varied forms with all of us.
E
Ellie H. Selvedge endlessly nourishes my soul
Selvedge endlesslynourishes my soul. Much love and gratitude to Pollyand the Selvedge clan.
M
Marial Absolutely gobsmackingly gorgeous
I was expecting something nice, but I was in no way prepared for how absolutely gobsmackingly gorgeous and inspiring your magazine is. Wow and wow. Now I’m counting the minutes until my next paper copy arrives.
K
Kathleen O’Grady A Very Special Offering
Since the very first time I received your editions and including each time I receive one, I’ve felt the experience is like receiving a new doll. I wish to be alone with my new ‘doll’ pouring over each page, enjoying the wonderment and delighting in the special moments. Thank you.
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