Issue 14 Imperial
THE TRADITION of magazines supporting illustration is long, dating back to the golden age of Norman Rockwell and the Saturday Evening Post (he drew from 1916 to1976!). Rockwell and his contemporaries captured the mood of an age in a way that is ideally suited to the magazine format. With the emergence of drawing as a force in contemporary textile art, there has been a search for new talent. Alice Brisland’s style is so fresh that we commissioned her to portray The Six Swans, a traditional fairy tale for Christmas. We also asked Molly Molloyto illustrate our story on the history of the cocktail dress and feature Klaus Haapaniemi’s fantastical drawings.Following the Magi you’ll find inspiration in Ikat plates made in Russia and exported to Central Asia Oksana Sekatcheva explains how the richly embroidered traditional Russian dress evolved over centuries. In the feature Goodwillto all Comrades see the strong graphic designs promoted by the communist government in an attempt to influence traditions.Another culture with a rich textile history is Italy, and we explore the imagination of
Miuccia Prada –the head of a global brand with an unusual philosophy. Included is an excerpt from Embroidery: Italian fashion, a luscious new book by Damiani. I am fascinated by the two renaissance sisters Beatrijs and Isabella De Este, whose passion for fashion was chronicled in their frequent correspondence. At Home in Renaissance Italy, a recently opened exhibition at the V&A illustrates how wealth and power flourished with the textile guilds. Mantero is a company that embraces new technology yet retains a connection with the Renaissance past. We see new work that results from their collaboration with Deborah Milner and Aveda. Innovation and the production of cloth are lifelong partners, as we see in the history of the Jacquard loom. Lesley Jackson introduces us to four contemporary designers using this technology to create beautiful products. Finally, we have lots to fill your stocking: take your pick from our bookshop and object catalogue.Christmas tidings to you all!