A GOLDEN DIASPORA

Image: Courtesy of Polly Leonard

The ancient cities of Samarkand and Bukhara owe their fortunes to their locations. Strung along the old Silk Road, they thrived on trade. This commerce, and its accompanying flow of religious and political ideas, informed the local craftsfolk, who became highly skilled. To this day, the goldwork of Uzbekistan remains synonymous with the luxury, wealth, and power of the ruling Emirs. 

Bukhara is considered the traditional and most renowned centre of gold embroidery, reaching its nadir in the 19th century. Despite the 1917 Bolshevik revolution, the craft of zardosi in Uzbekistan continues. Indeed, earlier this year, Selvedge Founder and Editor-in-Chief, Polly Leonard, attended the International Festival of Gold Embroidery, Jewellery and Embroidery Art, held in Bukhara.

Image: Courtesy of Polly Leonard

This biennial event showcases and supports the work of all those maintaining centuries-old Uzbek craft traditions, particularly the Hunarmand Association. Hunarmand's mission is to enhance the role of arts and crafts in the development of Uzbek national culture; to restore old traditions and distinctive types of manufacturing handicrafts; to sustain these crafts through master-apprenticeships for young people; to coordinate the activities of craftsmen, artisans, and professionals in applied arts; to meet the spiritual, social, and cultural interests of artisans; to organise auctions, fairs and exhibitions in Uzbekistan and abroad; to provide artisans with domestic raw materials, new and modern technology; to assist with sales in both domestic and foreign markets; and to support and develop home-based work.

Polly is most grateful for the festival's kind and generous hospitality. You can see something of what she experienced here.

Image: Courtesy of Polly Leonard

While awaiting 2024's conference, intrepid Selvedge readers may wish to visit The State Museum of Applied Art, in Tashkent, where over 500 examples of gold embroidery are displayed, or the growing collection of the Bukhara Museum. Alternatively, you can learn more about Uzbekistan's tradition of goldwork from the comfort of your own home, through Suzanne Pennell's book, The Art of Gold Embroidery from Uzbekistan (Storybridge Press, 2015). 

Those inspired to take a more practical approach might wish to sign up for the Royal School of Needlework's forthcoming class, revisiting the cutwork, chipping, couching, and appliqué work that adorned Norman Hartnell's 1952 coronation robe for the late monarch, Queen Elizabeth II.