Renaissance to Runway: The Enduring Italian Houses
The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, Ohio, Until 1 February 2026
In Renaissance to Runway, lyrical paintings of the past that are reimagined through the creative lenses of Francesco Carrozzini and Henry Hargreaves, are amplified further by the boundless capabilities of AI technology. Their video montage, Renaissance Revisited, blends sensuality with the delightfully mundane: sloshing oily paintbrushes, spilling hot dogs, or scavenging pigeons. Overindulgence emerges as a persistent motif, one that lingers long after leaving the gallery.
The Annunciation, c. 1580. Paolo Veronese. Courtesy of the Cleveland Museum of Art
Through precise juxtapositions of garments, portraits, and historical artefacts, Renaissance to Runway reveals how fashion has developed both as a functional necessity and a vehicle of artistic expression. As it spans the gulf between the opulence of 16th-century aristocratic attire and today’s haute couture, the exhibition invites viewers to reconsider fashion within a broader framework. Italian couture pieces are paired with paintings, textiles, and accessories to create intimate dialogues between past and present.
The exhibition unfolds across several thematic sections, each marking a pivotal moment in fashion’s evolution. These sections flow seamlessly, as they guide visitors through centuries of stylistic transformation.
In the first section, “Renaissance Beginnings: The Birth of Fashion as Art,” portraits from the museum’s collection demonstrate how meticulously rendered fabrics and accessories served as tests of artistic virtuosity equal to the figures they adorned. Opulent silk velvets appear alongside Agnolo Bronzino’s Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi, whose ermisino, a shimmering early modern Florentine taffeta woven with contrasting threads, sets the stage for Giorgio Armani’s silk-taffeta evening ensemble. This pairing underscores the dialogue between material innovation and aesthetic intent.
Antonio Marras, Fall 2024 Ready-To-Wear
In section two, “The Baroque and Rococo: Extravagance and Excess,” ornamentation and complexity take centre stage. Here, embellishments on the garments echo the lavish details in period paintings. A standout piece is Blumarine’s 2015 Greco-Roman-inspired evening dress, which features intricate cannetille embroidery. Its ribbed patterns mirror the clam shell that cradles the rising goddess in Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. This interplay between garment and artwork calls attention to the extraordinary craftsmanship of each object on display.
Alberta Ferretti (Italian, b. 1950). Ensemble, fall 2015. Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti.
The third section, “The Modern Era: From Industrial Revolution to Haute Couture,” highlights pivotal shifts in fashion’s societal role. Here the tension between utility and artistry becomes evident through garments that fuse structural practicality with bold experimentation. Alberta Ferretti’s structurally refined jacquard gown is thoughtfully positioned to echo the floral urns framing Domenico Ghirlandaio’s fresco The Birth of John the Baptist. Dress and painting engage in a spatial conversation, one that emphasises how fashion’s continues to negotiate between tradition and innovation.
Portrait of a Woman, c. 1550. Agnolo Bronzino. Courtesy of the Cleveland Museum of Art
The final movement, “Contemporary Fashion: The Runway as Art,” explores the democratisation of fashion in the modern era, where runway styles are shaped by streetwear, global influences, and digital culture. Particularly striking is the pairing of antique bobbin lace with Moschino’s exuberant “Cruise Me Baby” couture jacket, encrusted with beads and sequins in a pop-art palette. These two pieces, presented side by side, reveal the enduring threads that connect centuries of Italian creativity, movement, textile innovation, and social expression.
Ultimately, Renaissance to Runway succeeds brilliantly in illuminating the transformative history of fashion. Whether through the embroidered splendour of Renaissance court dress or the experimental silhouettes of contemporary couture, the exhibit affirms that fashion has always been a language – one that expresses identity, reflects cultural values, and, often, reveals our collective overindulgence.
Written by Andrea Sallee
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Further Information:
Renaissance to Runway: The Enduring Italian Houses, is on until 1 February, 2026, at The Cleveland Museum of Art.
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Image Credits:
Lead: Valentino Blue, with Fall 2018 "Ensemble" by Pierpaolo Piccioli (Italian, b. 1967) for Moncler (France and Italy, est. 1952), 2018. Suzanne Jongmans (Dutch, b. 1978) creative director and photographer. Courtesy of the Cleveland Museum of Art.
All further images as credited in photo captions.