Reviving Natural Dyes: A Sustainable Journey in Textile Production
In 1856, the discovery of synthetic colour mauvine marked a pivotal moment in dye history. Consequently, over time, much of the knowledge regarding natural dyes faded into obscurity, relegated to crafts or historic tapestry restoration. However, awareness of the global environmental impact of textile dyeing prompted AO Textiles in 2006 to revive ancient wisdom surrounding plant-based dyes, breathing new life into 21st-century textile production.
Despite contemporary adaptations, synthetic dyes due to their non-biodegradable nature remain a significant threat to the environment, persisting in the water table and ocean life for millennia (Singh, 2021.) Natural dyes have often been misunderstood in contemporary culture, unfairly considered inferior in colour quality and durability. Working as AO Textiles, Penny Walsh, Karen Spurgin, and Emma D'Arcey have dedicated years to dispelling these misconceptions.
By integrating their experience of industry requirements and standards into their research, AO textiles developed practical solutions that directly addressed the challenges faced by the fashion and interior sectors shifting their reliance on synthetic dyes. This research has led to a breakthrough in developing natural dyes for large-scale production, a process that required merging historical recipes with modern dyeing equipment.
Since 2007, in partnership with Gainsborough Silk Weavers, they have been trialling and designing with natural dyes directly in connection with the industry. What initially appeared a simple endeavour soon revealed its complexities. The intricacies of adapting production dye equipment designed for synthetic dyes unveiled challenges, sparking an ongoing odyssey of research and development. Additionally, each dye with its unique properties and nuances, demanded a bespoke approach, rendering the process a perpetual evolution of experimentation. In 2023, AO Textiles and Gainsborough Silk Weavers cemented their collaboration, showcasing naturally dyed silk damasks at the Future Fabrics Expo 23. This partnership represents a significant step towards reintroducing and redefining natural dyes for luxury textile production.
The collaboration emphasises the importance of sustainable botanicals in 21st-century textile manufacturing. By utilising plant dyes, they have pioneered a circular approach to dyeing. These naturally derived hues offer scalability, repeatability, and the quality demanded by industry standards.
Key to the project was to establish a colour palette that is easy to use in an industry context. Currently, there are five distinctive hues: Campeche from logwood, Rubia and pale Rubia from madder, Luteola from weld, and Castenada from chestnut. Their production process adheres strictly to sustainable guidelines, ensuring minimal environmental impact. AO Textiles sources fibres and dyestuff from GOTS certified suppliers.
Notably, their dyeing methodology received approval from Greenpeace International's 2013 Detox Fashion Campaign, a testament to their commitment to eco-conscious practices. By embracing natural dyes, AO Textiles and Gainsborough Silk Weavers are spearheading a change in the textile industry with results that are relevant and applicable to real-world settings. Their fabrics not only showcase the beauty of botanical colours but embody a commitment to environmental consciousness. It is a journey towards a future where craftsmanship and sustainability coexist harmoniously, setting a new standard for textile production in the 21st century.
Text by Emma D'Arcey of ao textiles
Images courtesy of ao textiles
Works Cited
Singh, G. D. (2021). Role of Fungal Enzymes in the Removal of Azo Dyes. BioTechnologia, 445-455
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