Issue 127 Aurora

As the evenings draw in and daylight fades, we turn our attention to light’s symbolic and spiritual presence, so often celebrated in religious texts. In the Far North, this manifests in the ethereal Aurora Borealis, painting the night sky with a mesmerising, shifting spectacle. Yet in quieter ways, northern light is unique; unlike sunlight from the East, South, or West, which changes in quality and intensity throughout the day, light from the North filters from the sky rather than directly from the sun, offering a soft, consistent glow. This diffused quality is especially prized by artists and makers who work with colour.

In this issue, we celebrate colour in all its forms – from the vibrant, expressive home of Zandra Rhodes and the painterly weaves of Harriet Wallace-Jones, to the understated palettes of Sámi textile artist Elsa Montell-Saanio. Scandinavian design reflects a deep reverence for light, shaped by long, dark winters. We see this in the bold prints of Marimekko and IKEA, the cool clarity of Arne Jacobsen’s designs, the cosy knits and interiors created by the Norwegian Flakk family, and the evocative madder reds of Norwegian folk dress, now forming the basis of Tim Parry-Williams’s ongoing research.

Rooted in warmth and well-being, the Nordic concept of hygge inspires our exploration of domestic textiles, from the rich history of Welsh coverlets to their evolution in New England and the contemporary makers reimagining figured weaving for today.

In cold climates, comfort is a technical triumph as well as an aesthetic one. Sophie Vent traces the evolution of mountain wear during the 50 years since the first ascent of Everest’s Southwest Face, culminating in the innovative collaboration between Moncler, Pierpaolo Picciolo, and Liya Kebede, that graces our screens as Carrie Bradshaw navigates the Manhattan streets during a snowstorm in Season 1 of And Just Like That, on Netflix.

Back on home ground, we spotlight contemporary knitwear designers Jo Gordon and Rose Brown, who are pushing the possibilities of colour blocking through single-strand construction. You can discover their work firsthand at the Selvedge Winter Fair on 22 November. I look forward to seeing you there.

Polly Leonard, Founder

Selvedge Magazine