The Art of Medicinal Dyeing
Ayurvastra, derived from the Sanskrit words ‘Ayur’ meaning life and 'Vastra' meaning clothing, represents the meeting point of medicine and sustainable clothing. Originating from the ancient Indian medicine system of Ayurveda it has been used for over 5,000 years as a technique to support and enhance a person’s health and wellbeing through the dyeing of sustainable cloth with medicinal herbs and plants. Ayurvastra is a process that still exists in India today, but is a lesser know strand of Ayurveda.
Promoted by the Thamizhagam kings, and worn by soldiers under their armour in battle to help heal the body in case of wounding, hand loomed natural fibres would be woven before going through the (often lengthy) process of being treated and dyed with medicinal plants, to help ease many ailments and health conditions. The marriage of the herbs and the colours they produced created a symbiotic relationship between the medicinal properties of the plants and the visual aesthetics of the cloth. In some traditions, chanting mantras during production would take place to infuse positive vibrations in to the fabric, each garment created with intention both from the plants as well as the maker.
Goldenrod, (Solidago canadensis)dyestuff and hand dyed yarns. Used as a symbol of good fortune, growth, and encouragement.
Natural dyeing has been used less and less in clothing production since the rise in demand for fast fashion, and chemical dyes have largely replaced the need for natural dyeing globally. According to the United Nations Environment Program, textile dying is the second-largest water polluter globally and the biggest offender in the fashion industry. Most textile mills and factories use artificial and synthetic colourants made from petrochemicals which cause great environmental harm, rendering the water undrinkable when discharged into local waterways.
Claire Hardaker with foraged natural dye plant material.
Our skin is our largest organ and absorbs everything that is placed upon it, therefore educating ourselves on how our clothing is made and the chemical impact it has - not only on the environment, but on our health - feels hugely important in this current climate. Traditionally, plants such as Neem, Turmeric or Sandalwood would be used to create beautiful colours of grey, yellow and pink, but also for their healing benefits. They are antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and work as antioxidants, as well as being deeply calming for the nervous system. Compared to the modern day petrochemicals most of us are absorbing on a daily basis, practices such as Ayurvastra and natural dyeing feel more important than ever to bring in to our clothing choices.
In the UK the interest and awareness of herbalism and natural plant dyeing has gained momentum in recent years, and Suffolk based textile artist Claire Hardaker is someone who dedicates her creative practice to that symbiotic marriage between medicine and textiles. In fact if you were to venture out along the river Deben one morning, you would likely find Hardaker harvesting plants that will later fill the dye pot and infuse her hand spun yarn to be woven into a beautiful garment.
Yarns displaying the colours and hues extracted from locally foraged plants.
Working with plants and natural fibres, she creates wearable pieces of clothing intended to nurture the wearer. First, she decides on the healing qualities she wants to infuse into the cloth, which then informs the colours that will be incorporated. The colours are therefore almost incidental, yet Hardaker remarks on this process as a freeing way of working. She says, “I’ve found it quite hard to find any combination of natural dyes that don’t work aesthetically.”
The first piece Hardaker made was a shawl and she describes the moment she put it on as feeling so taken care of, “It truly was this deep feeling of being looked after and loved”. This echoes the way in which the Ayurvedic cloths would be prepared with such intention and blessed with the vibrations of mantra. Later, at a point in her life when Hardaker was faced with grief, she sought out her plant allies for support. She describes weaving her grief into a jacket, with both the weaving and the wearing feeling like a deeply healing act. She discovered the power this craft could hold - one that many have relied on for centuries.
Claire Hardaker in her studio, weaving naturally dyed yarns on her loom.
Once Hardaker has landed on the theme of a piece, she will set her intentions for the project and then gather together some yarns from her stock, or take to the dye pot to create newly infused ones. She always makes sure to harvest responsibly and respectfully, gathering what she needs from the land around her - mugwort for pale green, Willow leaves for terracotta peach, heather tops for a soft warm tan. Combined, these plants provide properties known to support our physical and emotional wellbeing through calming the nervous system, relieving stress, providing anti-inflammatory support and to help with healing of the kidneys and urinary system. Once she has all the yarns together, she will begin to weave - mainly on a Saori loom - to create the cloth. Saori is a freestyle form of weaving which originated in Japan. There are no rules, no patterns to follow, no mistakes. “It is the perfect art form for accessing a true flow state” says Hardaker. “I have found it a perfect way to translate emotions, or to channel intentions from our deepest selves into the cloth”.
Hardaker talks of a bracelet she made her daughter where she used fibres of the plants themselves as yarn; nettle fibre for strength and protection, rose fibre for love, and lotus fibre for deep rootedness. “When I’m creating a piece I feel like I am making a potion or a spell, with all the ingredients for nurturing or protecting the wearer. There is a real comfort in connecting with the plants in this way”.
A hand-woven shawl imbued with Rosemary (for the ancestors), and Hawthorn and Rose (for the heart). Created by Claire Hardaker.
Something I am left with after speaking with Hardaker is the abundance of plants around us that hold such medicinal value - including in our cities. And while the clothing and fashion industry is having huge environmental impact, learning more about these ancient, slow techniques and what’s available on our doorsteps (sometime literally) feels a worthwhile education. As Hardaker has discovered, the possibilities of dyeing with natural matter are endless. This beautiful alchemy can bring a piece of cloth to life, and without the use of chemicals has the ability to connect us to nature through our clothing.
I am curious to know - if we were to take a leaf from Claire Hardaker’s book and the ancient practice of Ayurvastra, could we begin a more mindful approach to the way we get dressed? Let us champion these traditional techniques and processes so that our environment is not compromised, our makers are not exploited and we can reap the benefits of clothing that has been made mindfully, fairly and with fabrics and dyes that are not only chemical free, but that may actually promote our health both on a physical and emotional level.
Written by Gabriel Marshall, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Nona Wear
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Further Information:
Claire Hardaker
Nona Wear
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Image Credits:
Lead Image: Medicinal Plants, ready for use in the natural dye process. Photo: Gabriel Marshall
All other images courtesy of Gabriel Marshall and Claire Hardaker..