We are KAL: Following Fibre Back to Its Source
We are KAL began with a simple but exacting question: where does a textile come from, and what is embedded within it by the time it becomes a garment? Founded in 2013, the project brings together farmers, spinners, weavers, dyers and makers across India, with each stage of production made visible and valued. Rather than compressing process, We are KAL slows it down, allowing fibre, labour and place to remain legible in the finished cloth.
Roaming the surrounding landscape of Ladakh, alongside a herd of local goats. Image courtesy of We are KAL.
The project took shape after founder Catherine Allié spent nine months travelling through Northeast India and the Himalayas, seeking out home-based weavers still working with natural fibres and inherited techniques. What followed was not immediate production, but a period of research and exchange, gradually forming a network of collaborators committed to hand-making and small-scale work. Today, We are KAL operates between Assam and Ladakh, with production rooted firmly in domestic and community spaces.
The wild silk worm called Samia cynthia ricini. Before spinning the eri silk cocoons, the moth has to leave the cocoon and a hole remains. Image courtesy of We are KAL.
Eri silk lies at the centre of the collection. Woven by women in Assam, this silk is often referred to as ahimsa or peace silk, as the moth is allowed to emerge from the cocoon before spinning begins. The process is slow and labour-intensive: silkworms feed on castor leaves for around thirty days, spin their cocoons over a further fifteen, and only once vacated can the fibre be washed, boiled and hand-spun. The resulting yarn has an irregular, linen-like character that resists uniformity.
Winding eri silk at the We are KAL studio. Image courtesy of We are KAL.
Weaving takes place on wide fly-shuttle looms, often set up outdoors or in simple workshops, producing cloth that retains the mark of the hand. Colour is introduced through plant-based dyes sourced locally, including mehndi leaves, which produce soft camel-beige tones, and teak leaves, yielding muted blue-grey shades. Dyeing is carried out using traditional methods, without chemical additives, preserving both the integrity of the fibre and its relationship to the environment.
Farming natural nomadic Yak wool in Ladakh. Image courtesy of We are KAL
In Ladakh’s Changthang region, wool for knitted and warm woven offerings is sourced from high-altitude herds tended by nomadic and settled communities. The wool is hand-spun and woven close to where it is raised, carrying the qualities of its landscape into the textile itself. Both wool and silk garments are stitched in small batches in Ladakh, finished with careful construction details rather than overt design gestures.
Jacket Kapou by We are KAL, made with thick eri silk fabric for a special structure and warmth. Hand-spun and hand-woven by the team in Assam, and sewn in a small studio in South Delhi. Image courtesy of We are KAL.
This approach is evident in the We are KAL jacket offered as a prize in this issue. Made from handspun, handwoven eri silk, naturally dyed with mehndi leaves, it is relaxed in cut and rigorous in finish, with French seams and blind stitching throughout. Warm, durable and designed for long-term wear, it reflects We are KAL’s belief that value lies in materials allowed to speak for themselves.
Head to our Enter A Prize Draw page and fill out the entry form for a chance to win.
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Further Information:
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Image Credits:
Lead: Jacket Kapou by We are KAL, made with thick eri silk fabric for a special structure and warmth. Hand-spun and hand-woven by the team in Assam, and sewn in a small studio in South Delhi. Image courtesy of We are KAL.
All further images as credited in photo captions.