Wheat, Silk, Light: The Sculptural Language of ELIURPI
Elisabet Urpí and Nacho Umpiérrez met in Barcelona over 15 years ago and have collaborated professionally for just as long. Their creative partnership began organically, with Urpí producing small hand-sewn garments and accessories and Umpiérrez capturing them through photography. From the start, their understanding of each other was seamless, allowing them to build a shared artistic vision. Over time, their work has evolved into a full-fledged creative collaboration, leading to the establishment of ELIURPI, a name derived from the union of the two names Elisabet and Urpí.
Elisabet Urpí and Nacho Umpiérrez, ELIURPI. Photo by / Retrato por Agustí Carbonell.
ELIURPI became the foundation for their joint exploration of art, design and sculpture. What began as sculptural hats has evolved into large-scale art installations, furniture and sculptural hangings. They now create from the studio in a 17th-century building in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter.
Their shared interests in aesthetics and structure, combined with a mutual passion for craftsmanship, helped them establish the brand’s identity. They sought to break conventional barriers and redefine artistic expression through their combined efforts. Over the years, their creative synergy has allowed them to explore new dimensions in design, making their work distinct and highly recognisable. Urpí and Umpiérrez’s vision is closely tied to the philosophy of Panta Rhei (everything flows), a concept from Heraclitus that suggests everything is in a state of constant flux. This idea guides their work, emphasising impermanence and the transient nature of artistic expression. They aim to capture the essence of the moment they are experiencing, ensuring that each piece is an authentic representation of their present reality.
Mediterrania. Raffia and silk/Rafia de hilo de seda.
“We are inspired by architecture and contemporary art, observing and being surrounded by culture inspires us to create,” Urpí says. “Our sculptures are a reflection of the moment we are living in and our way of seeing and living life.” Their influences are vast, spanning modernist architecture, minimalism and abstract art. The duo believes in the power of observation, taking in their surroundings and filtering them through their creative minds to produce work that speaks to the contemporary world.
Instead of adhering to a fixed style or methodology, Urpí and Umpiérrez allow their work to shift and evolve based on their surroundings and observations. This dynamic approach ensures that their pieces remain relevant and deeply personal. They are fascinated by how space, structure and form can interact and create new meanings, and they strive to capture this interplay in their work. Their process is intuitive, allowing each piece to naturally take shape based on their emotions and the materials at hand.
Maxi Capelina hat in straw. From the Eliurpi Hats and Objects collection.
In their hat designs, they employ a mix of traditional and experimental techniques using wheat straw yarn. “The materials we use are natural,” explains Urpí. “What sets us apart from traditional millinery are the shapes and dimensions we take to the extreme in a sculptural way and the techniques we have been experimenting with.”
The decision to work with hats as sculptural pieces rather than mere fashion accessories highlights their commitment to blending art with practicality, balancing function and concept. Urpí and Umpiérrez experiment with proportions and construction techniques to create pieces that defy expectations. Their hats become more than just wearable items; they transform into artistic statements that explore the intersection of function and conceptual design. The craftsmanship of these hats is meticulous, the designers ensuring that each piece carries both artistic and technical excellence.
Elisabet Urpí forming a new Eliurpi sculpture.
The duo create hand-sewn textile sculptures, shaping them freely in the air as they stitch. Guided by an idea rather than a rigid plan, they allow the form to emerge organically during the making process. They work exclusively with natural materials, including linens, silks, and raffias, always exploring new possibilities through experimentation. Currently, they are working with abaca fiber, a material that lends itself to their sculptural approach. Their process is intuitive and hands-on, bringing each piece to life through the tactile nature of sewing and shaping.
Indeed, Urpí and Umpiérrez refuse to be confined by industry expectations, instead forging their own path where art and utility coexist. Each project presents new challenges and opportunities to experiment with the ways in which objects interact with the human body and space. One of their most impactful projects was their sculpture exhibition, Shadows and Poems, in Milan during Salone del Mobile in 2024. The event garnered substantial attention from both visitors and Italian media, solidifying the duo’s presence in the art world. The success of this exhibition reinforced their artistic approach and encouraged them to push their concepts further.
Eliurpi sculptures in situ. Mediterrànea at Escat Gallery, Barcelona, November 2024 - January 2025.
Urpí and Umpiérrez’s previous work at Salone demonstrated their ability to blend function with concept, and the enthusiastic response encouraged them to experiment further. The impact of the exhibition has propelled them into larger creative spaces, providing opportunities to showcase their work on a grander scale. They returned to Milan again this year, in April, for another showcase, this time featuring a light installation at the National Museum of Science and Technology Leonardo da Vinci. This project, titled, Panta Rhei, continues their exploration of form and space, incorporating new elements to engage their audience in a different way.
Whether through sculpture, millinery or installations, Urpí and Umpiérrez’s work consistently reflects their evolving perspectives and artistic philosophy. The partnership is based on a foundation of mutual respect, creativity and continuous evolution, ensuring that their work remains dynamic and ever-evolving. Their vision is not limited to a single artistic field; rather, it is an ongoing exploration of how creativity can shape and be shaped by the world around it. Their legacy is one of fluidity, adaptability and a relentless pursuit of artistic excellence, ensuring that their work will continue to inspire and challenge conventional boundaries for years to come.
Written by Thao Phuong
(thao.phuong1212@icloud.com)
-
Further Information:
-
Image Credits:
Lead: Panta Rei: Padina - Textile sculpture of natural raffia. Escultura Téxtil de rafia natural. Image courtesy of Eliurpi.
All other images as credited in photo captions.