Dark Fairy Dust: The Story of The Vampire’s Wife
On 21 May 2024, The Vampire's Wife, announced its closure, explaining that 'despite a period of positive growth and sales, the upheaval in the wholesale market has had dramatic implications for the brand.' In honour and memory of their iconic and imaginative collections, we are re-releasing Dark Fairy Dust: The story of The Vampire’s Wife by Deborah Nash, originally published in Selvedge issue 114: Regeneration.
The Story of The Vampire’s Wife
In Salley Vicker’s debut novel Miss Garnet’s Angel, (2000) a retired school teacher, Julia Garnet, buys silk underwear while shopping in Venice. The cobwebby lace of the French knickers and the sheen of the cream camisole top attract her attention, and overcoming her embarrassment, she tries them on. Standing in front of the changing room mirror, Julia feels the touch of gauzy cloth against her skin and has, for the first time in her life, an experience of sensuality. She purchases the underwear, knowing that no one will ever know she is wearing it – except herself – and through this tentative sartorial adventure, her long-dormant femininity begins to blossom. The sensuality of a garment, its tactile qualities and its emotional impact on the wearer are one of the delights of The Vampire’s Wife fashion label. Co-founded by former model Susie Bick, and based in Lewes, East Sussex, the company’s silk-blend dresses, blouses, and capes seduce from the moment you slip them on. Deceptively simple in design but artfully cut, the filmy silk, satin, chiffon, viscose, and organza feel beautiful on the inside and accentuate the form, aided by tiny details: a concealed zip or seams with baby lock finish, occasionally in a sparkly thread, to create what Susie describes as “fairy dust on a dress.”
Image: Florence Welch in performance and on her album cover Dance Fever wearing The Vampire’s Wife. Image above: Florence Welch wearing The Vampire’s Wife.
The Vampire’s Wife is named after the title of an unfinished novel by Susie’s husband, the Australian singer-songwriter Nick Cave. Some dresses reference his song lyrics, such as “The Ghosteen,” a feather-trim velvet kaftan gown. In return, Susie makes a haunting appearance on Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds’ album cover Push The Sky Away, looking like Eve banished from Eden, her face curtained by her raven black hair. Susie’s childhood was migratory, moving from Cheshire to Nigeria and Malawi as a child, settling back in the UK in Bromley and, while still a teen, eccentrically escaping from boarding school on a milk float, then on to Japan, at a time when Japanese fashion was at the vanguard, with designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto (for whom she modelled).
The Story of The Vampire’s Wife
In Salley Vicker’s debut novel Miss Garnet’s Angel, (2000) a retired school teacher, Julia Garnet, buys silk underwear while shopping in Venice. The cobwebby lace of the French knickers and the sheen of the cream camisole top attract her attention, and overcoming her embarrassment, she tries them on. Standing in front of the changing room mirror, Julia feels the touch of gauzy cloth against her skin and has, for the first time in her life, an experience of sensuality. She purchases the underwear, knowing that no one will ever know she is wearing it – except herself – and through this tentative sartorial adventure, her long-dormant femininity begins to blossom. The sensuality of a garment, its tactile qualities and its emotional impact on the wearer are one of the delights of The Vampire’s Wife fashion label. Co-founded by former model Susie Bick, and based in Lewes, East Sussex, the company’s silk-blend dresses, blouses, and capes seduce from the moment you slip them on. Deceptively simple in design but artfully cut, the filmy silk, satin, chiffon, viscose, and organza feel beautiful on the inside and accentuate the form, aided by tiny details: a concealed zip or seams with baby lock finish, occasionally in a sparkly thread, to create what Susie describes as “fairy dust on a dress.”
Image: Florence Welch in performance and on her album cover Dance Fever wearing The Vampire’s Wife. Image above: Florence Welch wearing The Vampire’s Wife.
The Vampire’s Wife is named after the title of an unfinished novel by Susie’s husband, the Australian singer-songwriter Nick Cave. Some dresses reference his song lyrics, such as “The Ghosteen,” a feather-trim velvet kaftan gown. In return, Susie makes a haunting appearance on Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds’ album cover Push The Sky Away, looking like Eve banished from Eden, her face curtained by her raven black hair. Susie’s childhood was migratory, moving from Cheshire to Nigeria and Malawi as a child, settling back in the UK in Bromley and, while still a teen, eccentrically escaping from boarding school on a milk float, then on to Japan, at a time when Japanese fashion was at the vanguard, with designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto (for whom she modelled).
Want to read more of this article?
We are proud to be a subscriber-funded publication with members in 185 countries. We know our readership is passionate about textiles, so we invite you to help us preserve and promote the stories, memories, and histories that fabric holds. Your support allows us to publish our magazine, and also ‘what's on’ information, and subscription interviews, reviews, and long-read articles in our online blog.
ALREADY A SUBSCRIBER? CLICK HERE TO ACCESS CONTENT