GOLD AND THE GODS
From the Aztecs to the Egyptians to Celtic and Hindu mythology, throughout ancient history the sun has been a powerful presence adored and deified by civilization. Now fast-forward to the 20th and 21st centuries and it’s easy to see that the object of humanity’s affection has shifted from the sun to religion and royalty. It’s not surprising then, that these two facets of culture have long been adorned with goldwork; one of the textile industry’s most ornate and luxurious embroidery techniques. From the cuffs of church robes to the lapels of sovereignty, there’s no denying that goldwork and worship are inherently linked.
How refreshing it is then, to see the work of emerging artist Anita Carnell. Using traditional goldwork embroidery, Anita’s minimalist and abstract artwork harps back to basics, playing with simple forms and negative space. Looking at her work it can even feel as if history has come full circle – using the embellishments of the gods and the royals themselves to veer away from their own typically ornate design, towards an aesthetic that is similarly complex in its technique, yet at the same time calming and quiet. Through these designs Anita's work seems more in tune with ancient attitudes than that of our contemporary world.
Showing her most recent works at New Designers: One Year On in London this weekend, Anita is well aware of the cultural connotations of her materials. Choosing golden wire that’s used by Royalty, Livery Companies and Guilds for over three centuries, she hand-stitches it as a way of exploring ideas of British heritage. Through back-stitching and couching she works with leather – an unexpected and sometimes controversial material that you wouldn’t typically expect to see alongside such a traditional technique. Anita cites 9th century Cordovan and Spanish decorated leather wall hangings as her inspiration for this choice of materials, which were once used to adorn the great palaces of Europe.
From contemporary royalty to ancient deities, it often feels as if Anita’s artworks are able to time-travel through history, picking up pieces of mythology along the way. And as the natural patina of gold and leather matures over time, her works continue to grow and live on through the years well after her hands have left the surface. Who knows what divinities the future has in store for goldwork...
1 comment
Thank you for a lovely piece on the work of Guilded artist Anita Carnell. It is lovely to read how others respond to her work, particularly with such an interesting perspective.