Summer with the Selvedge Archives: Holiday Souvenirs
The embroidery of Madeira
Written by Nadia Albertini for Selvedge Issue 125, Mediterranean
Known locally as bordado Madeira, Madeira embroidery is celebrated for its elegant floral designs and exquisite details. It is a distinctive art form shaped by the island’s unique cultural influences and natural beauty. Madeira embroidery is more than decoration; it is a legacy stitched into fabric, imbued with a spirit of craftsmanship that deserves celebration.
Nestled in the azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean, closer to Morocco than it is to Europe, the island has long captivated travellers with its beautiful beaches and lush landscapes. This included the first Portuguese navigators who took possession of this archipelago in 1418. The origins of Madeira embroidery can be traced back to the 15th century, when the first Portuguese settlers from the North of Portugal, particularly from Viana do Castelo, brought their knowledge of needlework with them, along with some simple motifs found in indigenous dress.
We owe the development of this industry to one woman in particular: Bella Phelps. And for almost 200 years now, this needlework style has been recognised as one of the finest in the world. Born in 1820 in Funchal, Bella was the daughter of a wine merchant, Joseph Phelps and his wife, Elizabeth, co-owners of a large wine-trading firm, Phelps Vineyard. The company dominated the market worldwide for Madeiran fortified wine. Due to their prominent position, the Phelpses became major benefactors on the island. The couple’s most important contribution was improving education. Their daughter soon followed in their footsteps, developing and promoting embroidery. It is said that after observing the skills of the women and girls, she decided to establish an embroidery school where she improved the patterns and modernised the methods while importing linen, from England.
Bomboteiros, Madeira, 1950. Small boats for selling goods such as lace. Alamy Stock Photo, Foto Figueiras
The transformation of Madeira embroidery from a humble family craft to an internationally recognised art form began with the Madeira Industries Exhibition at São Lourenço Palace in 1850. This landmark event brought the island’s embroidery into the spotlight, earning it significant prestige. Shortly afterwards, Bella was invited to showcase her work at the Great Exhibition in London 1851. The exhibition proved to be a triumph, cementing Madeira embroidery’s reputation. This recognition not only spurred production on the island but also marked the beginning of its export to the United Kingdom and, later, Germany.
By the late 19th century, Madeira had become synonymous with exquisite hand embroidery, employing an estimated 70,000 skilled embroiderers (bordadeiras). Yet the industry faced challenges, including a steep decline during the First World War. A revival followed in the 1920s and 1930s with the establishment of iconic companies such as Patrício & Gouveia (1925), Imperial de Bordados (1926), and J.A. Teixeira (1937).
The creative process is explained in detail by Alberto Viera in his book Madeira Embroidery, commissioned in 2007 by one of the largest manufacturers still in operation in Funchal today: Bordal. Patterns are either hand-drawn or transferred using the prick-and-pounce technique, and the motifs are meticulously embroidered utilising an array of traditional stitches.
Bomboteiros, Madeira, 1950. Small boats for selling goods such as lace. Alamy Stock Photo, Foto Figueiras
Today, these embroideries are coveted all over the world. One of the biggest collectors and dealers, Thea Naliato Cohen, lives in Sao Paulo, Brazil and founded Toalhas Chiques. She is an architect by training and devotes her time to saving and preserving the textiles she often finds at the bottom of cupboards or dressers. In the 1960s, magnificent tablecloths embroidered in Madeira arrived in large numbers in the Americas. Often forgotten, these were wedding gifts and used to be sold by Portuguese merchants going door to door, showing their treasures. Some magnificent embroideries haven’t seen the light of day in 40 or 50 years.
Nowadays, Madeira embroidery continues to captivate with its intricate craftsmanship, but the number of embroiderers in this sector has decreased. The low salaries means that the younger generations do not see embroidery as a secure source of income, which threatens its continuity.
Bella Phelps died 180 years ago. Today David Oliveira, 30, is actively working to improve the situation. Although he remembers watching his mother and grandmother embroider, it was not until he left Madeira for Porto and later Oslo to study architecture and came into contact with other cultures that he came to appreciate the value of the cultural heritage of Madera embroidery. In 2021, he founded Bailha, a consciously made apparel brand. His designs bring Madeira embroidery into everyday life and rethink this centuries-old tradition through minimalist and timeless styles. Oliveira uses only organic cotton and works with a small team of three experienced and valued embroiderers, giving them the best possible wage. It’s a project rethinking tradition, empowering women while crafting consciousness around this unique embroidery style.
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Further Information:
Selvedge Issue 125, Mediterranean is available in the magazine shop.
On Wednesday 2 September, 5-6 p.m. (BST) Nadia Albertini will be giving an online talk (From Paris to London: Couture Embroidery) as part of Selvedge London Textile Month.
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Image Credits
Lead: A traditional lace cloth from Madeira. Photo: Mauricio Abreu
All further images as edited in photo captions.