India Week with Brinda Gill - Contemporary Chikankari from Sangraha Atelier

“We started in 2015 with my doctoral research, which focused on providing design education to chikankari embroidery women artisans and studying its social impact. The aim was to enhance their recognition and financial dignity. I explored how design could play a pivotal role in their embroidery, improving both their craft and livelihoods. This eventually led to the creation of an organization where these artisans could showcase and retail their work to a niche market,” says Dr. Jaspal Singh Kalra, Founder and Promoter of Sangraha Atelier in Lucknow, India. Dr. Kalra, an embroidery artist, co-founded the atelier with Danish Siddiqui.

Sangraha Atelier collaborates with chikankari artisans to create contemporary products while staying true to the heritage of the craft. The name Sangraha, which means "collective" in Hindi, reflects the atelier’s ethos of collaboration, fostering connections, and empowering women through chikankari.

Chikankari, a delicate and refined embroidery style native to Lucknow, has a history spanning centuries. Traditionally, it was worked with white threads on fine white cotton, earning it the title of “whitework.” This intricate embroidery encompasses nearly forty stitches, including surface work, reverse stitching, and the creation of jali or net-like patterns through thread manipulation.

“Every stitch found in any embroidery around the world exists in some form within chikankari,” explains Dr. Kalra. “Authentic chikankari embodies three-dimensional texture from the stitches, opacity from the fabric and embroidery, and transparency from the jali stitches. A true chikankari garment, like those we create at Sangraha, typically features at least eight to nine different stitches.”

Sangraha Atelier works with a team of 40 women artisans, many of whom have undergone a specialised design course. “Our design team continually innovates, exploring the craft’s possibilities within the framework of chikankari,” says Dr. Kalra. “We never compromise on the essence of the embroidery—the stitches remain traditional, but we innovate in their application, combining textures in fresh and creative ways.”

The atelier’s product range includes shirts, tunics, kurtas, tops, coordinated sets (such as shirts paired with straight pants), and home products. These feature beautiful embroidered motifs, often inspired by contemporary floral designs. New artisans typically start with home products like table linens, gradually advancing to garments as they master the techniques and quality standards.

Sangraha Atelier’s dedication to preserving the tradition of chikankari while adapting it for modern tastes and needs has earned widespread appreciation. By honoring the craft’s heritage and evolving its aesthetic, Sangraha continues to empower artisans and captivate new generations of admirers.

Website: www.sangrahaatelier.com
Contact: Jaspal Kalra – jaspal.kalra@sangrahaatelier.com