Linen for Living, with Lapuan Kankurit
Linen. It creases, it softens, it carries the marks of everyday life. It is these qualities that make it so enduring, improving with use and time. In the hands of Lapuan Kankurit, it becomes something more considered: a material shaped by landscape, heritage, and a understanding of how we live.
Woven in western Finland since 1917, Lapuan Kankurit’s textiles are inseparable from their surroundings. Think cool air, long light, the ritual heat of the sauna. Their cloth is designed for these moments—pieces that move easily between function and comfort, equally at home in daily routines and slower, more restorative rituals. Nothing feels overworked or overdesigned; instead, there’s a clarity to their approach that lets the materials speak.
That same philosophy runs through the woven gift bundle kindly offered by Lapuan Kankurit as part of the Selvedge Issue 129 prize draw. Worth £140, it’s a considered set built for rest and ease: a linen bathrobe, a bath and hand towel set in a Tencel-linen-cotton blend, linen slippers, and striped linen lounge trousers. Each piece is lightweight, breathable, and made to be lived in—whether that’s after a sauna, a bath, or simply a quiet morning at home.
What makes Lapuan Kankurit compelling isn’t just longevity, though their history stretches back over a century. It’s the way that history is held in motion on looms that trace their lineage back to the 1930s, when the first industrial weaving machines were introduced to the family business. Today, that legacy continues alongside more advanced jacquard looms, where generations of skill meet innovation. They’ve held onto a slower, more deliberate way of making in a world that rarely allows for it. Materials are traced, processes are transparent, and weaving remains at the heart of everything they do. This is cloth made with intent that is designed to last, to age, and to carry meaning between your hands
We caught up with co-owner Jaana Hjelt for 5 Minutes with a Friend to talk about weaving, heritage, and life at the Lapua mill:
Jaana Hjelt
Jaana, what is your earliest memory of a textile?
The earliest textile memories are closely tied to family and traditional handcrafts. I especially remember our grandmother growing flax, processing the fibres, and weaving beautiful linen towels—an almost magical process. In addition, my parents’ sheep and the wool spun into yarn taught me that textiles are stories of people, land, and continuity.
The daily life and sense of community at the LAPUAN KANKURIT weaving mill have also shaped both mine and Esko's relationship with textiles and our own identities, since we always spent so much time in the weaving mill as teenagers.
How would you describe what draws you to textiles and the world of making?
As the entrepreneurs of the weaving mill, our approach is shaped by many years of textile expertise, a deep understanding of materials, and hands-on production experience. Working closely with gifted designers, we craft new textiles that honour tradition whilst carrying it forward. As a family business since 1917, our decisions are always made with future generations in mind, not just the next financial year. This perspective encourages us to consider the wider impact of our work and to ensure that our craftsmanship is passed on responsibly to those who follow. We are happy that this year our children, the fifth generation, is joining the company.
The ongoing challenge—honouring our heritage while moving forward with fresh innovations—remains a daily source of inspiration.
If you create textiles, where do you feel most inspired to work?
We feel most inspired in our mill in Lapua, where the sound of the looms and the presence of skilled makers create a unique atmosphere. Being surrounded by yarns, materials, and the long continuum of our weaving tradition gives us perspective.
What has sparked your imagination or inspired you recently?
Recently, we’ve been inspired by how young designers approach textiles with curiosity, courage, and fresh viewpoints. They always have fresh ideas and we learn and hear what they think about the future of textiles.
Archival materials and old patterns have also sparked new ideas, showing how memory and modernity can coexist beautifully.
What is your most treasured textile, and what story does it carry?
One of our most treasured textiles is an old family linen wall hanging designed by Esko’s mother Liisa. Liisa always told how it was inspired by an old traditional Finnish wall hanging. It reminds us of the generations who came before us — of their work and their values. It is a symbol of continuity: how skills and knowledge are passed down, transformed, and kept alive.
Where did you first learn your craft, and who shaped your early approach to making?
Our craft is deeply rooted in our long-standing family textile tradition and the expertise of those in our mill, many of whom have decades of experience. We learned from Esko’s parents, Esko’s father’s cousins, and other craftsmen who were still working with textiles when we took over LAPUAN KANKURIT in the year 2000. Meeting these people was truly fortunate, as many are no longer with us today.
These experienced weaving master's skills and knowledge were never captured in books—they existed only in their minds and hands. Today, we try to be wise and share this knowledge within our company, with students in the industry, and by documenting it, so future generations will be able to continue the art of weaving.
Is there a piece of music you return to while you work, that sets the rhythm of your making?
We often play music from the 80s; music from our youth energises the work.
What material or technique are you currently experimenting with or curious to explore further?
We are fascinated by how traditional materials like linen can be transferred to innovative weaving structures. Exploring new designs, textures, and finishing techniques (especially those that enhance recyclability and longevity) feels particularly meaningful to us now.
If you could collaborate with any maker—past or present—who would it be, and why?
We would choose to collaborate with someone who deeply respects natural materials and honest craftsmanship — like designer Dora Jung. Makers who have strong passion for textiles always inspire us, and working with such people often leads to something truly meaningful. A good example is working together with our talented designer Akira Minagawa, founder of Japanese textile company Mina Perhonen.
What does a perfect day of making look like for you?
A perfect day begins with calm, uninterrupted focus and ends with a sense of progress — whether it’s a new idea, a promising sample from the loom, or clarity about a direction. It includes conversations with our team, seeing materials come to life, and feeling connected to future possibilities.
Many thanks to Jaana Hjelt for her time and thoughtful insights.
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Further Information:
Click here for a chance to win the Lapuan Kankurit woven gift bundle.
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Image Credits:
All images courtesy of Lapuan Kankurit.