The Art of Medicinal Dyeing
Ayurvastra, derived from the Sanskrit words ‘Ayur’ meaning life and 'Vastra' meaning clothing, represents the meeting point of medicine and sustainable clothing. Originating from the ancient Indian medicine system of Ayurveda it has been used for over 5,000 years as a technique to support and enhance a person’s health and wellbeing through the dyeing of sustainable cloth with medicinal herbs and plants. Ayurvastra is a process that still exists in India today, but is a lesser know strand of Ayurveda.
Promoted by the Thamizhagam kings, and worn by soldiers under their armour in battle to help heal the body in case of wounding, hand loomed natural fibres would be woven before going through the (often lengthy) process of being treated and dyed with medicinal plants, to help ease many ailments and health conditions. The marriage of the herbs and the colours they produced created a symbiotic relationship between the medicinal properties of the plants and the visual aesthetics of the cloth. In some traditions, chanting mantras during production would take place to infuse positive vibrations in to the fabric, each garment created with intention both from the plants as well as the maker.
Goldenrod, (Solidago canadensis)dyestuff and hand dyed yarns. Used as a symbol of good fortune, growth, and encouragement.
Natural dyeing has been used less and less in clothing production since the rise in demand for fast fashion, and chemical dyes have largely replaced the need for natural dyeing globally. According to the United Nations Environment Program, textile dying is the second-largest water polluter globally and the biggest offender in the fashion industry. Most textile mills and factories use artificial and synthetic colourants made from petrochemicals which cause great environmental harm, rendering the water undrinkable when discharged into local waterways...
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Written by Gabriel Marshall, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Nona Wear
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Image Credits:
Lead Image: Medicinal Plants, ready for use in the natural dye process. Photo: Gabriel Marshall
All other images courtesy of Gabriel Marshall and Claire Hardaker..