The Textile Research Centre are crowdfunding
A unique collection of Japanese kimono and haori (jackets) is offered to the Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden, The Netherlands.
Who is offering the collection to the TRC?
Marianne Kooimans, raised in Delft, the Netherlands, developed a profound love for textiles in her early years. Growing up in a setting where silk was a rarity, her fascination with Japanese silk kimono grew. She saved her money and bought her first kimono at de Kimono Winkel in Amsterdam. It was an unlined summer kimono in heavy crepe silk with orange and turquoise dragonflies. She would continue to visit the shop, and it was there that she met her husband, Steve Wood.
After her studies in fashion and monumental design, Marianne utilised this summer kimono as inspiration, design-wise. Her experimentation with shibori techniques and ivory habotai silk showcased her commitment to innovation. With the Japanese garments, she found wonderful, inspiring combinations and a boldness that spoke to her as a young artist.
Steve Wood, an artist from the U.S., had years earlier established a painting studio and store in Seattle named Asian Reply. Here, he sold Asian and Korean items alongside his paintings. The artist's introduction to the kimono occurred when salesman Masa Kobayashi came into his studio with vintage kimono for sale. Despite initial hesitation, he purchased twenty pieces and quickly sold half, prompting regular shipments. The fascination grew, leading to a collaboration with Kobayashi. This connection opened the door for Steve to explore and select unique kimono pieces, sparking a deep interest in this traditional Japanese garment.
By the time Marianne met Steve in the mid-eighties, Steve had closed the store and studio in Seattle and moved to Amsterdam to follow his career as an artist in Europe. Capitalising on the growing European interest in Japanese culture, Steve continued to sell kimono and haori, still sourced from Masa Kobayashi. Steve introduced Marianne to a broader variety of kimono, Asian art, and “trade.” Marianne, who shared his appreciation for Japanese textiles, became deeply involved in the kimono business alongside her career as a designer.
What is the collection that is offered to the TRC?
The mid- to late 1980s were a unique time to collect this sort of garment. In Tokyo, a whole generation who had worn these garments was passing on, and the younger generation had no interest in wearing such an archaic item, and most certainly they would never wear a second-hand or used garment. This led to these items being dropped off at recycling centres. It was Masa Kobayashi’s brother who saved them from the recycling centres in Tokyo.
Together, Marianne and Steve refined their collection, combining their different interests, knowledge, and preferences. Steve tended to favour the more formal wear kimono (tomesode, furisode) that were painted, small patterned haori, and men’s hand-painted formal haori. Marianne had a keen eye for textile design, weaving and dying techniques (especially shibori). Her textile background and education informed her ideas for the collection.
Working together, the collection has become very special. It ranges from men’s and women's haori jackets that feature motifs on the inside of their lining, to both subtle and more boldly patterned women’s kimono, in fine silk or cotton. The techniques represented in this collection include hand painting, screen-printed motifs, and shibori. Steve and Marianne's journey from the early days to the curated collection of vintage Japanese kimono and haori is a testament to their passion for textiles, design, and cultural preservation.
This collection has it all, in terms of technique and material. It highlights what kimono and haori can illustrate of the beautiful textile tradition of Japan.
Who is offering the collection to the TRC?
Marianne Kooimans, raised in Delft, the Netherlands, developed a profound love for textiles in her early years. Growing up in a setting where silk was a rarity, her fascination with Japanese silk kimono grew. She saved her money and bought her first kimono at de Kimono Winkel in Amsterdam. It was an unlined summer kimono in heavy crepe silk with orange and turquoise dragonflies. She would continue to visit the shop, and it was there that she met her husband, Steve Wood.
After her studies in fashion and monumental design, Marianne utilised this summer kimono as inspiration, design-wise. Her experimentation with shibori techniques and ivory habotai silk showcased her commitment to innovation. With the Japanese garments, she found wonderful, inspiring combinations and a boldness that spoke to her as a young artist.
Steve Wood, an artist from the U.S., had years earlier established a painting studio and store in Seattle named Asian Reply. Here, he sold Asian and Korean items alongside his paintings. The artist's introduction to the kimono occurred when salesman Masa Kobayashi came into his studio with vintage kimono for sale. Despite initial hesitation, he purchased twenty pieces and quickly sold half, prompting regular shipments. The fascination grew, leading to a collaboration with Kobayashi. This connection opened the door for Steve to explore and select unique kimono pieces, sparking a deep interest in this traditional Japanese garment.
By the time Marianne met Steve in the mid-eighties, Steve had closed the store and studio in Seattle and moved to Amsterdam to follow his career as an artist in Europe. Capitalising on the growing European interest in Japanese culture, Steve continued to sell kimono and haori, still sourced from Masa Kobayashi. Steve introduced Marianne to a broader variety of kimono, Asian art, and “trade.” Marianne, who shared his appreciation for Japanese textiles, became deeply involved in the kimono business alongside her career as a designer.
What is the collection that is offered to the TRC?
The mid- to late 1980s were a unique time to collect this sort of garment. In Tokyo, a whole generation who had worn these garments was passing on, and the younger generation had no interest in wearing such an archaic item, and most certainly they would never wear a second-hand or used garment. This led to these items being dropped off at recycling centres. It was Masa Kobayashi’s brother who saved them from the recycling centres in Tokyo.
Together, Marianne and Steve refined their collection, combining their different interests, knowledge, and preferences. Steve tended to favour the more formal wear kimono (tomesode, furisode) that were painted, small patterned haori, and men’s hand-painted formal haori. Marianne had a keen eye for textile design, weaving and dying techniques (especially shibori). Her textile background and education informed her ideas for the collection.
Working together, the collection has become very special. It ranges from men’s and women's haori jackets that feature motifs on the inside of their lining, to both subtle and more boldly patterned women’s kimono, in fine silk or cotton. The techniques represented in this collection include hand painting, screen-printed motifs, and shibori. Steve and Marianne's journey from the early days to the curated collection of vintage Japanese kimono and haori is a testament to their passion for textiles, design, and cultural preservation.
This collection has it all, in terms of technique and material. It highlights what kimono and haori can illustrate of the beautiful textile tradition of Japan.
What does it cost the TRC to acquire and curate the collection?
While the TRC normally only accept donations, the value of this beautiful collection of Japanese garments would prove a valuable addition to the TRC collection, well outweighing the purchase price.
The collection would strengthen and add further depth to the TRC's already existing Japanese collection, on both a historical and technical level, make for exciting exhibition pieces at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden, and be made available for other cultural institutions.
Image courtesy of Marianne Kooimans
Find out more and donate:
www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/102-news/1611-crowdfunding-japanese-collection