India Week with Brinda Gill - A Gift for Posterity: Documenting Traditional Kanjeevaram Motifs

Balaram Krishnamoorthy, a master weaver from Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, has dedicated over four decades to preserving the heritage of Kanjeevaram silk saris. His remarkable work includes documenting over 5,000 traditional motifs, which serve as an invaluable reference for future generations of weavers. In recognition of his contributions to the craft, he received the National Award for weaving in 2010 and the Sant Kabir Award in 2018.

Local legend suggests that weaving began in Kanchipuram when Sage Markandeya, an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, created textiles for the deity’s wedding to Goddess Parvati. The tradition of weaving cotton and silk garments is said to have continued, with Lord Shiva preferring cotton and Lord Vishnu silk. Over the centuries, Kanchipuram has become synonymous with beautifully hand-woven textiles, with both cotton and silk saris being produced. However, it is the Kanjeevaram silk sari that has become a coveted garment for brides, not just in Tamil Nadu but across India.

Balaram’s weaving journey began at the age of 15 when he apprenticed under the guidance of his grandfather, Muniswamy, father, P.M. Balaram, and elder brother, Kannan. He learned to weave using the traditional jala loom, a mechanism that helps create complex designs by lifting warp yarns. In later years, he honed his craft further under the mentorship of senior weavers like N. Veerappan, Director of the Weavers Service Centre, Chennai, and B.P. Uthaya Kumar. Throughout his career, he has woven thousands of exquisite Kanjeevaram saris and trained hundreds of weavers and students, always emphasizing the importance of traditional motifs and techniques.

Kanjeevaram Weave

Kanjeevaram saris are handwoven with three-ply mulberry silk yarns and often feature supplementary silk or metal yarns to create intricate motifs. The saris are distinguished by their rich textures, vivid colours, and traditional patterns. Traditionally, the sari features...

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