Issue 88 Geometric
Selvedge Magazine
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May / June 2019
Issue 88 Geometric: the mathematics of cloth
"The 27th April marks Freedom Day in South Africa, a national holiday. To celebrate the 25th anniversary of free elections we devote this issue to the memory of Nelson Mandela, the president who’s sense of style set him apart from other world leaders. Dress was an evocative political tool for Mandela’s public image, the sartorial embodiment of freedom and self constitution; His shirts set the tone for a new nation no longer defined by colonial power structures.
The generation of designers who have emerged after more than half a century of Apartheid, have a strong cultural identity and unique design aesthetic. The rest of the world is now enjoying the benifits of its mature style. We see evidence of this in the zig-zag knits of Laduma Ngxokolo who combines Cape Mohair from angora goats reared predominantly in the Karoo region, with the indiginous designs of the Xhosa region.
Imagery from colonial times such as the Voortrekker Keppie Bonnets, or the Basotho Blanket that have been absorbed and re invented to appeal to the African eye. At a time when the rights and wrongs of cultural appropriation are a hot potato, the striking painted homes of the Ndeble people stand as a treasured example of how a new vocabulary can emerge from cultural influences as diverse as Cape Dutch gables, European packaging design and American cars from the 1950s. No appropriation here just creativity.
Cape Town’s finest examples of modernity is the MOCA, a gallery carved from circular concrete grain silos standing proud in the baking sun and over looking the fairest bay in the world. The elements all of this energetic vibrant design have in common is the reinerpritation of geometry the endless variations of squares circles and triangles, colour and vigour. Uniting geometry and the healing aspect of craft practice are two stories of quilts that have emerged from war, those made by Boer soldiers, and those made by refugees from conflict in Bosnia. Vibrancy and hope can come from the darkest places."
Polly Leonard
Founder & Editor of Selvedge Magazine
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A truly enjoyable read
This magazine is a joy to read on every level. It is well researched, interesting and beautifully written. It cleverly connects the distant past with cutting edge current practice and has inspired me to learn more about both. Now I want to read more!
Visually very satisfying and intellectually stimulating
I always find Selvedge Magazine visually very satisfying and intellectually stimulating. I have all the issues in my library and will have to find a good institution to donate then to when the time comes. I remember getting issue 00 at some conference or meeting in the US when you were first starting out. Bravo again for so many years of sharing the joy of textiles in all its varied forms with all of us.
Congratulations on your vision!
I’ve just been looking up your magazine, and absolutely love it! It seems like it knits together all the slices of delight that are left over in our soul when we are spent with our daily survival transactions…..congratulations on your vision!
I treasure each issue
Your exquisite magazine - I treasure each issue and feel fortunate to receive it.
Selvedge endlessly nourishes my soul
Selvedge endlesslynourishes my soul. Much love and gratitude to Pollyand the Selvedge clan.

