Turkey Red, Julie Wertz

Turkey Red reveals the astonishing saga behind one of the most iconic and chemically complex dyes in textile history. Julie Wertz traces how Turkey red—a famously brilliant, wash-­fast red—was invented in India, perfected through centuries of experimentation, and industrialised in cotton mills from Britain to France and Switzerland. This multidisciplinary volume examines the laborious madder-based technique of oiling, dung‑soaking and mordanting before delving into printing practices, global trade routes, and the dye’s cultural afterlives in everything from quilts to fashion fabrics.

Filled with richly detailed case studies and accessible chemistry, the text navigates industrial espionage surrounding alizarin synthesis, the dye’s symbolic power in colonial markets, and the influence of Islamic motifs on printed designs. With 92 colour illustrations across 232 pages, Turkey Red situates the dye not merely as colour but as cultural capital—bridging craft, science, empire, and identity across three continents.

About the Author
Julie Wertz is Beal Family Postdoctoral Fellow in Conservation Science at Harvard Art Museums. A specialist in technical analysis and textile conservation, Wertz brings scientific rigour and narrative clarity to craft history, revealing hidden layers in even the brightest red cloth.

Publication date: 2024
Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts 
Pages: 232
ISBN: 9780500292211